#88 - Peak District - Snow on the hills

The forecast for this Will4Adventure Free Walking Weekend had us all geared up for some "cool" conditions. It turned out to be a fairly settled day, and, although overnight there had been some snow on the ridges, we weren't troubled at all by the weather.

Well, I say that, but the ground was sodden and a few of the large group of 25 managed to find themselves on their backside coming down from Lose Hill. Even more impressive, one bloke even succeeded in breaking his ankle in three places; a mean feat on a piece of ground that wasn't particularly treacherous, but, I guess, that's always the way!

The long lunch break/wait for the ambulance to pick him up meant a slight detour up Win Hill to make up time which we did, walking back into Castleton around 5pm, by the light of head torches.

• Date: 28/11/09
• Region: Peak District National Park
• Status: Member
• Description: Castleton - Hollins Cross - Lose Hill - Win Hill - Hope - Castleton -Overcast, Cold, Snow on high ground. 19km, 7.5 hours
• Type of Walk: Personal Walking

Overland Track - Early Doors!

I guess buying a set of 1:25k maps covering the area of Tasmania's Overland Track can be construed as making a commitment to forge ahead with plans to walk it in 2010!

A very rough itinerary is starting to develop; Flight to Sydney with a couple of days to get over the jet lag. Fly to Hobart, and a day spent stocking up on supplies such as gas and food. Then it's a bus journey to Cradle Mountain - Lake St. Clair National Park for an overnight stay before an early start the next morning. Six or Seven days on the track and then, depending on the bus journey back to Hobart, a day or two in the State capital. Finally, a couple of days in Sydney, then home.

There aren't many good deals going for flights to Sydney at the moment.. well, if you're looking at November 2010, there isn't! Most of the major hauliers; British Airways, Emirates etc. don't allow you to book that far in advance. Those that do tell the same story; I'll be looking at a cost of at least £800 plus an internal flight to Hobart. If only the Overland Track wasn't so inhospitable during the cheaper months of June and July!

Unfinished Business

A little more than a week over 5 years ago, I set off with my two friends, Graham and Tess, and their neighbours, on Australia's most internationally renowned long distance trail, The Overland Track.

The route is 80km, and traverses through Tasmania's Cradle Mountain - Lake St. Clair National Park. It's rugged mountain peaks and alpine moorlands offer some of the finest scenery in Australia. The walk requires you to carry your own provisions, and is not an undertaking that should be taken lightly.

We planned to complete the route in 6-7 days, but unfortunately, the weather wasn't with us. By the time we reached Waterfall Valley Hut on day one, it was apparent that this was to be a tougher ask than I expected. Late afternoon, the rain and winds that had soaked me to the core were replaced by snow, and the long term weather forecast was more of the same. The problem of drying kit was exacerbated by overcrowding in the hut due to so many large groups choosing to shelter there rather than use their tents, as they were supposed to. I could hardly blame them, it was pretty grim outside.

The next day, we had to make a decision. In hindsight, I would have liked to have sat the day out in the hut, dried my gear and hoped for a break in the weather the next day. It would have allowed the crowds racing to the next hut to have got ahead of us, and hopefully out of our sight, but I was the only one with extra time to play with here; the others had to be back for work in Hobart. So we reluctantly decided to turn back. In the sleet and snow that ensued, I took a turn for the worse, and by the time we had reached the emergency shelter of Kitchen Hut, I was suffering from mild hypothermia due to my sodden clothes.

I had the forethought to recognise this and get out of the wind chill, change out of my wet clothes as quickly as possible. Graham and Tess brewed me up a welcome warm drink and lent me one of their down jackets, and when I had recovered sufficiently, Graham took my rucksack off me and we headed back down. Fortunately, the bad weather abated, and I eventually felt strong enough to take my rucksack back for the final couple of miles to the start.

Five years later, as I bask in the satisfaction of completing the Annapurna Base Camp Trek, my thoughts have now turned to what to do next and inevitably, I'm immediately drawn to what I see as unfinished business.

Already, I have made tentative plans; Once again, I envisage a November (Spring) 2010 attempt, preferable thanks to the shackles of work commitments and budget. A December start would see me paying christmas prices for flights. Aside from the rough date, and pawing over the old maps, guide books and reminiscing, the challenge is in it's very early stages but the Overland Track is definitely calling me!

#87 - Annapurna Base Camp Trail - 9

The final day and a long walk out. It happened to be one of the highlights of the trip. Whereas normally, the route out should have meant a climb up to Ghandruk, various illnesses and injuries meant we took a different lower route along the steep banks of the Modi Khola (river). We passed through terraces of paddy fields and millet, seeing the Nepal I had imagined, with locals working their crops, and going about their daily routine.

I now began to realise why athletes trained at higher altitude, as I was in my element walking this route feeling stronger than when I had started eight days ago. I could have quite easily have carried on for another week!

We hooked up with the official trail once again, descending the steep steps to Syauli Bazar (1220m) where we had lunch.

From this final stop on, we began to notice the traces of urban civilisation appearing. Birethanti and our final destination, Nayapul, were a bigger shock this time around. The squalor and filth had been barely noticeable thanks to the view of the mountains on day one, but after 8 days in the hills, it was a rude awakening.

The bus was already there to meet us and whisk us back to Pokhora. We'd done it, but a part of me wished it could have gone on for longer!

• Date: 11/11/09
• Region: Annapurna, Nepal
• Status: Member
• Description: Jhinudanda – Kilyu - Syauli Bazar - Chimrung - Birethanti - Nayapul - Clear – 395m Ascent, 1060m Descent, 7h
• Type of Walk: International Personal Walking

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#86 - Annapurna Base Camp Trail - 8

A later start today, thanks to the fact we had to wait for Will, Lesley and Vicky to arrive from Bamboo. Also, a change of route, to make things easier. We headed down to Chhomrong for tea, and diverted down some extremely steep steps to Jhinudanda (1780m). This was a real test of my head for heights, and as Will later said, it was "kill or cure!"

I contained my fears, but was relieved nonetheless, to reach the teahouse.

Not long after, Jim arrived, in a lot of pain and distress. His knee was suffering, and the thought of another day walking must have been a big worry. But he can be a stubborn mule, and took it as a challenge!

Fortunately, a fellow walker had a knee brace that he gave to Jim to ease the pain for tomorrow.

The afternoon was spent either relaxing, or as others did, descending to the hot springs by the river below. I chose the option of staying at the teahouse, as I didn't relish the steep climb up, all for the sake of a bit of hot water!

• Date: 10/11/09
• Region: Annapurna, Nepal
• Status: Member
• Description: Sinuwa – Chomrong – Jhinudanda – Clear – 380m Ascent, 930m Descent, 4h 20m
• Type of Walk: International Personal Walking

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#85 - Annapurna Base Camp Trail - 7

A sleepless night. Will was constantly getting up to see to another virus victim, this time it was Lesley. I was beginning to get paranoid, as I had sat next to her through dinner and we teamed up for a game of scrabble. I was beginning to wonder if I was the carrier!

I didn't get up for the sunrise. I was way too tired to stir from my sleeping bag for a bunch of pink mountains. In hindsight, my decision was the correct one as it wasn't particularly inspiring, the sunset being much better the night before!

After breakfast, we had our group photo with Annapurna 1 in the background (see right), then started the long journey down. Our Nepali guide, Padam, started to get quite agitated by our slow descent. The day was beautiful, and a few of us took advantage of taking pictures to make up for the missed opportunity on the previous days ascent in the mist.

A decison was made to split the team. Will would stay with Lesley who was very poorly, at Bamboo. The rest of us would continue on to Sinuwa where we had booked in. Padam was conscious that at our current rate, we would be walking in the dark! Although, being a bunch of British hillwalkers, most of us carried torches, this wasn't considered an ideal situation by our Nepali conunterparts.

So the day was a bit of a march once we had reached Machhapuchhre Base Camp. We stormed through Deurali and, after Jackie hitting a bit of a brick wall, we stopped for quick lunch at Dobhan (2600m). My lungs were enjoying the lower altitudes and by the time we reached Bamboo it looked like we would make Sinuwa in the last of the days light.

Whilst Jim, Diane, Sarah, Tanya and I made it without the use of headtorches, Jackie and some of the others did get caught out, but there were no real dramas.

• Date: 09/11/09
• Region: Annapurna, Nepal
• Status: Member
• Description: ABC – MBC – Deurali – Dobhan – Bamboo – Sinuwa – Clear – 355m Ascent, 2045m Descent, 9h
• Type of Walk: International Personal Walking

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#84 - Annapurna Base Camp Trail - 6

The day had arrived to reach our objective, and my personal altitude record would be broken yet again.

As soon as we started walking, I noticed the lack of oxygen. I felt a little dizzy but I slowed my pace, took plenty of rests with drink stops, and by the time we reached Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3700m), I was finding the going easier. Our rest here was lengthened to a lunch stop, to help acclimatisation and I enjoyed a tomato soup and chapati.

Then the clouds rolled in, and it appeared our walk into the Annapurna Sanctuary was to be veiled in mist. We headed off, up the final 400 metre ascent, a gentle easy stroll through a valley akin to the highlands of Scotland and a welcome contrast to the previous terrains we had trekked through. With the weather and cool temperatures, this added to the ambience of the walk to Annapurna Base Camp (4130m).

Arriving was a special moment for us all, despite the weather, but we didn't have to wait long before we could see the sanctuary, although in glimpses through the ever swirling clouds. We could eventually see the summits of Hiun Chuli (6441m), Annapurna South (7219m), Bharha Chuli or Fang (7647m), Annapurna 1 (8091m), and not forgetting the sacred Machhapuchhre (6997m) which was lit up at sunset.

We had made it!

• Date: 08/11/09
• Region: Annapurna, Nepal
• Status: Member
• Description: Deurali – Machapucharre BC – Annapurna BC Trail Base Camp (4130m) – Clear, misty – 975m Ascent, 30m Descent, 7h
• Type of Walk: International Personal Walking

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#83 - Annapurna Base Camp Trail - 5

A lot of ascent today, 1125 metres in all, and most of it above the 2500 metre mark.

We left Sinuwa early. Will had been grateful for the 12 hour sleep he got, and, although lightening his rucksack, was able to carry a substantial weight again.

We descended to Bamboo (2325m) for tea, something that was always a little disheartening given that any downs at this stage meant bigger ups!

The valley we skirted boasted great views of Machhapuchhre (6997m), known as "Fish-tail" for it's distinctive shape, pictured right.

Lunch at Himalaya, where I spotted a dish I'd keep in mind for my evening meal.

Our long day was complete after 8 hours, and we reached Deurali. The drop in temperature at 3200m was noticeable, and the lack of a shower for the first time on the trek, saw most of our group order hot buckets of water to wash in. Some of us just chose to stick with wet wipes!

And so to the highlight of the day, and an evening meal of Egg and Chips!!! Just the way it used to be made! Superb!

• Date: 07/11/09
• Region: Annapurna, Nepal
• Status: Member
• Description: Sinuwa – Bamboo – Dobhan – Himalaya – Deurali (3200m) – Hot, Sunny – 1145m Ascent, 335m Descent, 8h
• Type of Walk: International Personal Walking

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#82 - Annapurna Base Camp Trail - 4

A pretty gruelling nine hour day, especially for Will who became the second to come down with a virus!

Whereas Jim had suffered the day before but had come through it, his fever stage had been at night. Will, however, had to endure his high temperature bout through the day.

This was always going to be one of the longer days. From Tadapani we descended to Ghurnang (2060m) and contoured the hills on some dusty and narrow tracks with some nervy drops, to Chhomrong for a recommended pizza lunch.

Will wandered in late with Tanya, who had also succombed to an illness and she slept the length of our break.

Chhomrong has some crippling steps down to the suspension bridge crossing of the river which bears it's name, and then a punishing climb up to finish the day.

On the other side of the river, Diane, Jim and I looked back to see Will labouring down the steps, a long way behind, so we opted to wait while the others went ahead. When Will finally caught up with us, a porter took his rucksack and he continued the ascent to Sinuwa (2360m) taking plenty of rests.

Sinuwa Lodge was a welcome sight, and Will went straight to bed. My fear was that my two room mates had both come down with a virus, and I wondered if I would be next!

• Date: 06/11/09
• Region: Annapurna, Nepal
• Status: Member
• Description: Tadapani = Komrong – Kimrong – Chomrong – Sinuwa – Hot, Sunny – 980m Ascent, 1255m Descent, 9h
• Type of Walk: International Personal Walking

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#81 - Annapurna Base Camp Trail - 3

Up at 4:30am, and a significant personal record for me of 3210 metres on Poon Hill; higher than I had ever been!

The trail to the top was ridiculously busy, a long snake of head torches wriggled its way up to the summit. Poon Hill boasts a superb panorama of the Annapurna Range. Peaks included are Dhaulagiri (8172m), Annapurna South (7219m), and Machhapuchhre (6997m)

Once sunrise was complete, we descended to the tea house and breakfast. Today, we were off on what our leader Will has always said is his favourite day. It wasn't long before I could see why. Once down in Ghorepani, there is a steady ascent on to a high ridge called the Deurali Pass which reaches the height of 3210 metres. This is a shaded ridge of rhodedendran and bamboo forest, with glimpses through the trees, to the left, of the snow capped mountains, and the valleys and foothills to the right.

Tea at Deurali and a discussion about the wrong position of the villages on the trail map, which turned out to be the same for the actual trail! The contours, however, did appear to be trustworthy.

We descended a beautiful steep gorge, which reminded me of the Blue Mountains in Australia, to lunch at Ban Thanti (3180m). The afternoon saw further descent, then a climb up to Tadapani (2630m) our objective for the day.

• Date: 05/11/09
• Region: Annapurna, Nepal
• Status: Member
• Description: Ghorepani – Poon Hill (3210m) – Deurali Pass – Nan Thanti – Tadapani (2630m) – 880m Ascent, 1055m Descent, 8h
• Type of Walk: International Personal Walking

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#80 - Annapurna Base Camp Trail - 2

Early rise from our sleeping bags, for breakfast al-fresco in the morning sunshine, then off on the ascent to our destination of Ghorepani (2860m).

A tea stop this morning, at Ban Thanti (2210m), helps break up the incessant climb. My lungs had not acclimatised to the task yet, and I was having to dig deep. I'm thankful for the excuse of some magnificent views to stop and catch my breath! I adopted the policy of "Slowly slowly, catchy monkey!"and plodded up at my own pace.

An extended lunch break at Nangge Thanti (2430m), partly due to the length of time it took to cook our meals. I had some delicious fried vegetable momo's and the obligatory lemon tea, which I was becoming quite partial to! It was becoming apparent that some initial worries I had about eating on this trip were unfounded and my calorie intake was going to be more than enough to get me to the end.

The afternoon was further 400 metre ascent up to Ghorepani (2860m). Once again, done at a steady pace, whilst the majority tore off up the hill. Whereas the rest trailed through the town, those of us at the back followed the porters up a steep short cut, to the ideally located teahouse, boasting another great view of Annapurna South (7219m).

Ghorepani is a fairly large town, and the last where you can get internet access, so, as my mobile had no service anywhere in Nepal, I took the opportunity to email home and let all know I was still alive.

Another good meal; which turned out to be our last chance for meat - roast chicken and then an early night in preparation for the morning ascent of Poon Hill for the sunrise.

• Date: 04/11/09
• Region: Annapurna, Nepal
• Status: Member
• Description: Ulleri - Ban Thanti – Nangge Thanti – Ghorepani – Hot, Sunny, Clear – 925m Ascent, 50m Descent, 6h 15m
• Type of Walk: International Personal Walking

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#79 - Annapurna Base Camp Trail - 1

From Pokhora, it's a 2 hour precarious drive over the foothills to Nayapul (1070m), where the majority of Annapurna Sanctuary treks begin. This poor run down shanty town on the outskirts of the bigger Birethanti is a blur when whisking your way down to the river crossing, hardly noticeable when you have your eyes fixed on Machhapuchhre in the distance.

The day was oppresive, and before long I was faltering in the heat. Our late start meant forgoing a tea break so the ascent was telling on me before lunch. It wasn't long before an emergency stop at a house in Hille was necessary and I was rudely introduced to the wonders of a squat toilet!

Lunch was had at Tikhedhungga (1520m); some dioralyte, a couple of cups of lemon tea and daal bhaat saw me rally, and set me up for the afternoons ascent up 3280 steps to Ulleri (2020m), our first teahouse accommodation.

The teahouse was a pleasant surprise. Comfortable, welcoming, and with stunning views of Annapurna South (7219m), pictured above, and its smaller neighbour Hiun Chuli (6441m). If the rest were to be as good, the goal was going to be easier to achieve!

• Date: 03/11/09
• Region: Annapurna, Nepal
• Status: Member
• Description: Nayapul – Birethanti – Tikhedhungga – Ulleri (2070m) – Hot Sunny, Clear – 1120m Ascent, 150m Descent, 6h 30m
  Type of Walk: International Personal Walking

For anyone that hasn't sponsored me yet, please go to http://www.justgiving.com/annapurna_base_camp and make a donation for Hi-Cap UK.