Walking for Charity - A Blog

Scott of the Antarctic: 100th Anniversary

2012-01-17T02:42:00.000Z

A short video to commemorate a hero of mine, who reached the South Pole a century ago today.

Tasmania Rocks

2012-01-13T21:36:00.001Z

77 days to go and I’ve finally cracked the transport problem I was having in the November 2011’s "Tasmania Blues" post; namely, getting to and from the Overland Track.

Greg of hikingfiasco.com, put me on to McDermotts Coaches, who do transfers from Launceston to Cradle Mountain for a bargain AUD $51! I had seen them advertised before, but dismissed them as a day tour company. When Greg mentioned them, I went to their website, but for some reason failed to find the information I needed. Lo and behold, two months later I have gone back and found the information straight away! A typical case of “wood for the trees!”

With the outward leg sorted, I started looking at getting back to Hobart. Before, I was concentrating on using one firm for both legs, which is probably why I was having trouble, but splitting them up has done the trick. Enter Adventure Seekers who can do it for between AUD $80-110! Result!

So, looking at the figures compared with my original option;

Launceston to Cradle Mountain

Tiger Wilderness: AUD $300 (Billy No Mates Scenario), AUD $75 (5 or more passengers)
McDermotts Coaches: AUD $51

Lake St. Clair to Hobart

Tiger Wilderness: AUD $320 (Billy No Mates Scenario), AUD $80 (5 or more passengers)
Adventure Seekers: AUD $110 (1-2 passengers), AUD $80 (3 or more)

Whilst there is the potential that Tiger Wilderness could be cheaper at AUD $155, the combination of the others is guaranteed maximum AUD $161. If I was part of a group, I would go with the one company, but I am a lone hiker, who has no guarantee of extra passengers chipping in. I really don’t see a choice, especially as my trip is the back end of the peak season, and I’m not confident of extra passengers coming on board. I prefer to fork out for a confirmed price; one less thing to worry about…

The Chiltern Way 1: Hemel Hempstead to Chalfont St. Giles

2012-01-09T20:38:00.000Z

Happy Belated New Year to all!

It has begun full of good intentions, many of which are the same old chestnuts; get out walking more.. smile more often at work.. lose a couple of stone.. improve my cardiovascular.. swear less at work.. win the lottery.. start doing the lottery..avoid thumping someone at work.. like I said; “same old”. I see myself managing to keep at least one of them, but I couldn’t say which!!

With money a bit tight (thanks, in no small part, to my forthcoming trip to the other side of the world in March), I’m looking forward to some regular challenging walks closer to home for the next few months. I reckon The Chilterns can provide what I need, plus I thought it was about time I started ticking off sections of The Chiltern Way before the guidebook sitting on my bookcase crumbled to dust.

“The Chiltern Way is a circular walking route of 214 km (134 miles) with two optional extensions and an additional loop taking the total route to a maximum of 352 km (220 miles). It is a wandering, varied and mostly rural way stretching around the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty….”

Extract taken from the Chiltern Society website

As the majority of the mileage will be covered in day trips, where I can I will do a linear walk. It is inevitable that at some point I’ll have to do a circular, so I anticipate the distance to complete this will be at least half as much again!

I’ll be relying heavily on Traveline to find me the easiest public transport access to the trail. For The Ridgeway, it was invaluable!

So to my first walk of 2012.

Up early Saturday morning to catch the train from Uxbridge to Rayners Lane, then a bus to Harrow and Wealdstone, and finally another train to Hemel Hempstead. In under an hour, I was on the trail by 9.30am.

The walk didn’t start well. Bear with me as I explain; My favourite quote, from Freidrich Nietzsche, is “All truly great thoughts are conceived by walking.” Well, I think the same can be said about the truly annoying too. As I was leaving the railway station, I was contemplating my method of transport to and from the trail. It was a mixture of “buses and trains”, and suddenly the song “Needles and Pins”, by The Searchers, popped into my head! I know, its a giant leap to the song, but there you have it! Joe Simpson, I fully sympathise and know what you must have gone through with “Brown Girl in the Ring” (well, apart from the broken leg bit!). It took me quite a while to shake the song off!

More appropriate a soundtrack for today would have been Simon and Garfunkel’s “Slip, Slidin’ Away”, such was the state of the paths!

There is a genealogical connection that I have with Hemel Hempstead that adds some personal interest to todays proceedings. Once away from the station, up through Sheethanger Common, you come out into a stretch of fields once worked by my ancestors over 140 years ago.

A look at the 1871 census and you’ll see my 3rd Great Grandfather on my mum’s side, John Hobbs, living at Longcroft Farm, with his wife and three of his daughters; a family of farm labourers and straw plaiters, employment typical of the area. Staring at the landscape, pictured above, save for the trees growing, I’m pretty sure it has hardly changed in all those years!

In the villages and hamlets on the latter stages of The Chiltern Way, I have traced my family history back to 1740, and I’m already looking forward to treading in their footsteps later in the year. It’s nice to be able to connect with the landscape in this way.

Onwards, the sun started to burn off the morning cloud, and it turned into a wonderful day, despite the mud. Soon the sky was blue and it was a warm one.

Sensibly, I stopped for lunch before the village of Sarratt. If I hadn’t, I fear I would have succumbed to the inviting 17th Century Cock Inn, at Church End, and struggled to get any further down the track, which wasn’t the plan. Instead I managed a quick peak at the neighbouring 12th Century church.

Back on the way, the route drops to cross the Chess Valley Trail, a walk I did a few years back, from Chesham to Rickmansworth. Can’t say I recognised the area though, so this walk still felt entirely new to me.

Across the River Chess, and a slight incline up through woodland to Chenies. By now, it was gone one in the afternoon, and 14km completed. Once again, I shunned temptation; this time the 16th Century Red Lion, but come the summer, when the days are longer, I’ll be back to try out both the pubs I have passed!

Safely across the busy A404, I was heading down a muddy bridleway, under the railway and into Chorleywood West. This would have been an opportunity to cut the walk short, but the weather, and time, was on my side so I carried on. One thing was certain, this trail was certainly going to work my calf muscles over the next couple of months, because when not on road, it was all mud and puddle.

On down the Old Shire Lane, a possible route home via the South Bucks Way and the Grand Union Canal, if I fancied. I didn’t, and I turned off, climbing up passed the Chiltern Open Air Museum and onto the edge of Chalfont St Giles. Finishing at the end of a narrow back alley, I swore as my bus sped passed me when I stepped out onto the pavement of the A413. Fortunately, though, there was another one due in ten minutes. Section one, done and dusted - roll on section two!

to be continued..

Dartmoor Christmas pt.2 or “Vixen Tor: lest we forget”

2011-12-28T15:00:00.001Z

Boxing Day, and a trip to the south moor. The weather was much more inviting than the mizzle to the north, and it gave me a chance to visit a tor I had never been to before. I don’t know why I don’t visit the south more often. Yes, it is more accessible and therefore busier, but it has plenty of great spots.

Pew Tor is a short walk between a choice of a couple of car parks, and so, visited frequently. It is an impressive circle of granite towers, creating a natural amphitheatre. Whichever the direction of wind, there is somewhere to shelter, making it a pleasant picnic stop.

It commands some great views of the surrounding landscape, including Cornwall and Bodmin Moor to the south-west, and the church at Brentor (below) to the north-west.

I took lunch here, watching the comings and goings of people enjoying the access, open to the public as everything within a national park should be. A marked contrast to this sits a mere half a kilometre away; the controversial Vixen Tor.

Those familiar with the struggle for public access across the United Kingdom will be more than aware of this particular beauty spot. Whilst it’s neighbouring tors bring immense enjoyment to their visitors, perhaps the most striking of them all sits in solitary confinement, imprisoned within a ring of barbed wire, thanks to the selfish act of a bitter landowner.

Once frequented by all who wished to, a change in ownership saw access to the tor closed off. The Countryside and Rights of Way Act of 2001 made no difference, as was hoped, and the fight was taken up by many, including The Ramblers and British Mountaineering Council. Repeated attempts to gain the right to roam within the shadows of Dartmoor’s highest freestanding granite outcrop, have been met with frustration.

In March 2009, we all had high hopes a corner was turned when Devon County Council recommended two rights of way across the land. However, it could not be proved that the paths had been used frequently, despite 59 people supplying evidence, and the decision went in favour of the landowner in September 2011.

Since the decision, all has gone quiet on the matter. I hope the fight hasn’t been lost, and that work is afoot behind the scenes, but it does seem as though no further action is being taken. For more information on the history of Vixen Tor, and some details of the dodgy evidence that went against the campaign, visit Legendary Dartmoor.

Dartmoor Christmas pt.1 or “Carry on NOT Camping”

2011-12-28T11:46:00.001Z

Pretty soon after I was dropped off on the Granite Way, below Sourton Tors, the realisation of the weight on my back had woken me to my capabilities.

The walk along the cycle path was mercifully easy and lacked any gradient, but my upper body was already screaming to be rid of the extra 20kg. I kept telling myself I always knew it would be worse on the first day, but I didn’t anticipate it telling after the first fifteen minutes!

Still, it wouldn’t be long before I would arrive at the Fox and Hounds, where I would spend my first night. Or so I thought. The map shows a nice bit of disused railway; the handiwork of Dr. Beeching, which I assumed would lead me straight there. I didn’t take into account that parts of it would be closed off from the public.

Just after Lake Viaduct, the way is blocked, and the path turns off to the village of Bearslake; some may suggest this diversion is a calculated ruse to take you to the welcoming Bearslake Inn! As inviting as the it is, I fought the temptation and crossed the main road, before turning back south via the Dartmoor Way.

I wasn’t long, arriving at the campsite about 2pm. I was the only tent in the field; no other soul mad enough to spend Christmas eve here, especially when the forecast was for a wet one.

Never let it be said that camping in a tiny one man tent, in the winter, is fun. It isn’t. The sun sets just after four in the afternoon and doesn’t reappear until eight the next morning. When the rain chucks it down for pretty much all of that period, you are effectively imprisoned within your tiny canvas sarcophagus.

Cooking is confined to the tiny porch, a task fraught with danger; lying on one side because you cannot sit up, juggling the stove, pot and lighter all with one hand, whilst one eye is on the flysheet flapping precariously close to the flames. Once cooked, eating horizontally is a chore and you can almost sense the heartburn that will grip you at two in the morning.

When the time comes to break camp, there is no room in the tent to pack the rucksack, and outside is a quagmire of mud. Every slippery step, when packing up, cakes you, and your gear, in filth. Stowing the tent wet is never a pleasant experience, especially with the prospect of dragging it out again in a few hours to go through the whole sorry episode again.

The romantic idyll of camping on crisp snow, marvelling at the milky way in a cloudless sky it wasn’t. I realised pretty soon I would not be living the dream portrayed in the glossies, like Trail and TGO, on this trip. It hardly seemed sensible to carry on, and the decision to make a retreat on Christmas morning was an easy one.

Instead, I would continue the week doing day walks, whilst still carrying the heavy load, which, essentially, was the main objective…

Dartmoor Escape

2011-12-22T22:00:00.000Z

So, the rucksack is, at long last, packed! All that is left is to get the final few hours of work out of the way tomorrow morning, then load up the car and set sail for Devon via the A303.

I have a weighty burden, a shade over 20kg, but that’s the price to pay for carrying 7 days worth of food, and winter clothing. The plan is simple; I’ve measured out a distance similar to that of the Overland Track, 67km, and I’m carrying everything I think I need for that journey next April. Dartmoor is a perfect place to practice, and if anything has rougher terrain than I will encounter in Tasmania. By the end, I reckon I’ll have a pretty good idea what works and what doesn’t.

Saturday 24th; I leave Belstone, at the top edge of the North Moor, and make my way over Yes Tor and High Willhays, descending to the West Okement Valley for a wild camp.

Sunday 25th; a short stride up over Sourton Tors and Great Links Tor before descending to pitch up at the Fox and Hounds Hotel.

Monday 26th; I’ll pick up the Lich Way and travel it to Broad Hole for another wild camp, somewhere near Conies Down Tor.

Tuesday 27th; Hit the bright lights of Princetown for a pitch at the Plume of Feathers where there are a couple of Jail Ales with my name on it!

Wednesday 28th; I venture out onto the south moor, crossing the River Plym, and another wild camp near Left Lake Mires.

Thursday 29th; A short hop, skip and a jump into Ivybridge, and the traverse from North to South complete.

With the Princetown Weather Forecast over the festive period, looking favourable, all bodes well for a pleasant trip.

Trip report, photo’s and maybe a video, when I return!

All that leaves me to say is “Happy holidays everyone!”

A quiet month…

2011-12-14T21:30:00.000Z

Blimey, has it really been nearly a month since I last blogged? Well, as I have been up to pretty much nothing, it is hardly surprising!

I say nothing; there was a trip up to Edale on that windy weekend in November (can’t recall the date, but you know the one!), which resulted in a couple of nights sampling the 1677 in the Nags Head, and a half hearted stroll up Grindsbrook Clough.

Then there was early December; I made the most of my final month of 20% discount at Cotswold Outdoors, courtesy of the MLTA, by purchasing a new sleeping bag. Whilst I am happy with my Vango Viper 1000 4 season, it does seem to be a little over the top for the climes I tend to inhabit, and at 1600g, the heaviest item I carry. As I continue the task of shedding weight from my rucksack (it is proving far easier than tackling my waistline), enter the slim, trim and quite delicious RAB NEUTRINO 400! Weighing in at around 800g, this is a 3 season bag, reputed to have a comfort level limit of -4c. That’ll do me fine, with the aid of a silk liner and merino base layer. Should it still be a bit nippy, I can simply stick on more clothes or break out the bivvy.

My first introduction was on the internet; I wouldn’t say I was smitten at first sight, but my attention was certainly grabbed. The price left me feeling the need to be totally convinced, so I shopped around for the lowest deal and scoured the online world for reviews. Most were favourable, but the one that swung my decision was Terrybnd's Review.

Off to Covent Garden the very next day with my trusty plastic! My first look in real life did not disappoint. The weight was negligible, and the fabric wonderful to the touch. I eagerly forked out the discounted price of £228.

Now I am itching to test it out, but I have had to wait a few weeks with a Christmas escape planned to break it in.

Talking of Christmas; for the past few weeks I have been contemplating a way of avoiding the pitfalls of the festive period (over indulgence, compulsory “fun” and Christmas TV specials to name a few), and I think I may have come up with a solution!

The route profile on the Long Distance Walkers Association website has The Dartmoor Way as 133.8km (83.1 miles) long, with 3,231m (10,600ft) of ascent. For those not in the know, The Dartmoor Way is, to quote the LDWA again; “A route around Dartmoor linking hamlets, villages and towns with a variety of scenery including wild upland, sheltered valleys and quiet lanes.”

View Larger Map Get Directions View Bird's Eye

I have, potentially, 8 days over the Christmas and New Year break to play with, so, in theory, it is possible to complete it. Throw in a spot of mucky weather, though, and it might be a tall ask. But hey, it isn’t a particularly remote walk, it has plenty of escape opportunities, so, dependant on a favourable forecast, I’ll get out on the trail and see how far my feet take me!

With the plan being to wild camp where I can, thanks to the aid of The Dartmoor National Park Authority Interactive Camping Map, I have begun the task of route planning, starting from Okehampton on Christmas Day.

So, despite it being pretty quiet on the actual walking front, there are plans afoot to get out soon!

Wendover and Aylesbury arms

2011-11-19T23:00:00.000Z

Still, the mild climate is refusing to give way to winter. Order of the day was for Jim and I to head off for a gentle 18 mile “stroll” along the Wendover and Aylesbury arms of the Grand Union Canal.

With our head torches packed in anticipation of a long day, we started at 9am, from the village of Wendover; the first leg to the Grand Union proper is along a winding disused section, inhabited by all manner of waterfowl. The early chill was soon forgotten as any early mist was burnt off by the emerging sun. It was turning out to be a perfect day for walking.

We reached the Grand Union Canal, at Bulbourne at midday, where we stopped for lunch and a brew.

I was thrilled to be able to christen my Evernew Titanium Solo Cook Set and MSR Pocket Rocket Stove. I’m happy with the pot, but I’m a little concerned by the way it sits on the MSR stove; it might need me to dig out an old Coleman I have and see if it has the same instability.

We cracked on; not far to Marsworth Junction, where the Aylesbury arm begins, heading west, and the route we would follow.

Suddenly, as the long straight tow path came in sight, a starting pistol sounded in Jim’s head and he was off! I thought he had suddenly remembered he had left the gas on, or not set his sky+ to record X Factor or something similar! His pace saw us cover the 4.2 mile distance on the wrong side (for my liking) of 3 miles per hour. So much for a gentle stroll!

The journey south, was a little more conducive to my natural pace, thankfully because a bit of navigation was needed. The route, from where we left the canal, was along seldom trodden paths. One right of way, across a field, showed no trace of previous footsteps, and it did have me pondering if my ten year old map might need replacing. A little further on, we found ourselves in somebody’s back garden, and even with confirmation in the way of a new gate and waymark we had just passed, it still seemed like we had lost our way. We hadn’t, of course, it was just one of those wonderful quirks of the laws on rights of way here in England!

Across the busy A41, and more fields, and a golf course, where we saw an example of where the laws on rights of way, sometimes don’t make sense; Two footpaths, a mere 50 metres apart, skirted either side of a narrow field. Not such a big deal, maybe, but both had fairly expensive metal kissing gates when surely only one was needed, but I expect some old duffer in the Local Ramblers Association fought long and hard, as a matter of principle, to get them both installed; nice to see my annual contribution is being well spent!

By now, it was such a beautiful day that a couple of hot air balloons were enjoying the mid-afternoon sunshine, one passing far above us, when we reached the village of Weston Turville.

Bathed in the Autumnal light, we headed through the church yard of St. Mary the Virgin, with it’s unusual Tapsell's Lych Gate.

One final field before we re-joined the Wendover arm of the canal and, retracing our steps, we arrived back at the car at least an hour and a half earlier than I had anticipated! No need for head torches after all!

to renew or not to renew..

2011-11-16T21:08:00.001Z

Come the end of December 2011, my membership is up with the Mountain Leader Training Association (MLTA). I’ve thought long and hard about the worth of me renewing, and I see no reason to do so.

I took up the challenge of becoming a Walking Group Leader, way back in 2007. Then, I saw it as a means to enhance my knowledge of walking and navigating in remote wilderness areas, whilst doing something with structure and a clear objective. It made sense to learn from those qualified in the field, like Will Legon of Will4Adventure, rather than stumble along the self taught route. I am also a bit of a “list” freak, and the logging of walks appealed immensely! There was always the chance that if I eventually passed, I might be able to earn a little cash whilst doing something I loved.

However, when I passed, back in October 2009, the latter didn’t happen; a mixture of personal apathy and restrictions within my real job meant I could not realistically put myself out in the market. With so many Mountain Leaders out there, there is little need for a lowly WGL. I did investigate a change in hours, to free up my weekends, in order to pursue an idea of running navigation courses on Dartmoor, but my employers soon killed that spark of initiative quickly.

Back to the MLTA; If I renewed, a minimal yearly fee (but still a fee), it would then mean having to renew my first aid qualification at the end of January. Beside the course not being cheap, I find it particularly harrowing because of the need to role play, which, to me, is an alien concept and an excruciatingly embarrassing process.

That said, let’s assume I continued as a member, and retrained in first aid. Well, I don’t see the work opportunities being lucrative enough to recoup the outlay for travelling to and from London, not to mention any liability insurance I would have to take out, so there really is little point.

With all the current arguments definitely in the “against” corner, up next for consideration; my attitude to walking. I don’t see myself as having that “group” mentality, I’m not sure I ever possessed it in the first place! I’m an introvert. I really like either walking on my own, or in the companionship of maybe one or two others. I am comfortable with long silences between conversations, and enjoy periods of solo walking, that can entail. To be alone with your thoughts, to actually stop and lift your head to embrace the environment and drink in the surroundings, is quite special, whereas, in large groups, that precious silence is a gaping void that needs to be filled full with largely forgettable and frequently inane, chatter. Oh dear, I guess I am definitely not a people person

Looks like the scale is irretrievably tipped, but is there anything I will miss about the MLTA? Well yes; probably the only thing will be the 20% discount on goods in Cotswolds Outdoor shops! But I can live with that.

Books: Long Distance Walking

2011-11-12T15:28:00.001Z

I’ve just started reading a book called “A Journey of Days: Relearning Life's Lessons on the Camino de Santiago ” by Guy Thatcher, and I have to say, a tenth of the way in, I am already disappointed.

The story so far; having arrived in Spain, Guy suffered a set back where all his luggage had gone missing. Rather than re-kit himself immediately (something that he eventually had to do!), he waited to see if it would turn up, and so lost 5 days. Downtime you would think you would allow some leeway for, when embarking on an 800 kilometre walk, but when he eventually hit the trail, it was from Pamplona, Spain, and not St. Jean Pied-de-Port, France.

There’s the rub; I’m reading a book on the Camino de Santiago, written by a man who didn’t actually do all of the walk, and worse still, didn’t do the bit over the Pyrenees, missing out around 100 kilometres!

The remainder may well be a captivating read, but this bombshell is making it difficult to continue further. I feel cheated. If the product description had proclaimed that it was the story of a man who walked “most” of the Camino de Santiago, I probably wouldn’t have bought it!

I remember a similar sinking of the heart when reading Bill Bryson’s account of his journey along the Appalachian Trail; “A Walk In The Woods”. A third of the way into the book, Bill and his hapless mate took a look at the distance they had covered on the whole map of the 2,172 mile route and realised they would never complete it.

From there on, the story lost most of it’s appeal for me but I persevered. Despite it being just a series of tales along different sections, it was still a decent read and it didn’t manage to quash my interest in other titles about long distance walking.

One, that stands out, is a thru-hikers account, by David Miller; “AWOL on the Appalachian Trail”. I loved this one! For me, it accurately portrays the atmosphere of a truly long hike. It describes the lows, the injuries, the mistakes, as well as the highs that make people want to do it.

One quote within, that I particularly liked; “Anything that we consider to be an accomplishment takes effort to achieve. If it were easy, it would not be nearly as gratifying. What is hardship at the moment will add to our sense of achievement in the end.”

Granted, my own experience currently consists of trips that are week at the most, and in relative comfort, but this book does inspire me to set off on a much longer multi-day adventure. You can’t ask for more than that, really.

As for “A Journey of Days”; I’ll pick it up at some point, and I’ll see if it tempts me into finishing. The signs aren’t good, though.

#134 - South Downs day 2: Alfriston YHA to Eastbourne

2011-11-06T21:21:00.000Z

I have had worse nights in a hostel dorm, but this one was pretty bad. The guy in the bunk above was a serial fidget, and there was the obligatory insufferable snorer amongst the pack. Oh well, at least I had survived without a hint of a hangover thanks to the lowly 3.9% of the beer the night before.

I was up at 7.30am, more because I had given up the idea of a peaceful lie in, than by design, and we were down for breakfast half hour later. We departed the hostel at 9:15am, and retraced our steps to the river, before striking north along the South Downs Way.

At the bridge at Alfriston, we made our first change of direction that suggested we were heading back, and thanks to the warm up, I was better acclimatised to tackle an ascent of Windover Hill.

It was certainly a colder day, a chilly northerly cut across the ridge, but as soon as we found shelter on the lower slopes, it was much more comfortable.

We strayed from the way to try and get a look at the chalk carving known as “The Long Man”, but we failed to see it, instead managing to find a trig point that showed we had achieved our highest point on the walk, a heady 214 metres!

We had hoped to find a tea shop, when we descended into the village of Jevington, but Jim had to make do with standing outside the Hungry Monk restaurant and reading the menu. Interesting fact; the restaurant is the birthplace of the Banoffi Pie, back in 1972!

With nothing to keep us in Jevington, we were onwards and upwards, 130 metre climb to the top of the down, where the trail turned south to the coast. To our left, sat Eastbourne, and a great view of the south east coast up to Hastings.

The section south is long and straight, giving you ample opportunity to take in the views from both sides of the ridge.

Crossing through the Eastbourne Downs Golf Club, we cracked on to where the coastal section of the South Downs Way intersects, and then descended to the cafe in Holywell for a cuppa and a large slice of carrot cake!

All in all, a successful weekend away, and given it was only put together a few days before, all the better for it!

Date: 06/11/11
Region: South Downs National Park
Status: Equals
Description: Alfriston YHA - Windover Hill - Jevington - Willingdon Hill - Eastbourne Downs Golf Club - Warren Hill - Holywell - Overcast, chill breeze, 4hrs, 15.3km
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#133 - South Downs day 1: Eastbourne to Alfriston YHA

2011-11-05T23:00:00.000Z

Weather reports all week had conspired against us, and it appeared that the only part of the UK to see heavy rain, and miss out on the sunshine, would be the South-East of England. So, no guessing where we were heading! My mate, Jim, and I drove down to Eastbourne for a couple of days walking along the South Downs Way. Fortunately, though, we got a reprieve, and we had no need for our waterproofs for the entire weekend.

Parking at Holywell, on the very edge of town, where the urban sprawl halts abruptly beneath the steep eastern edge of the downs, we set off about 10.15am and were ascending the national trail immediately. With no chance to warm into the walk, I was soon struggling to get my second wind.

First landmark, is the famous Beachy Head, favourite haunt of those with suicidal thoughts, but fortunately for the patrolling clergy we passed, no work to be done today.

We made pretty easy work of the undulating cliffs and we were soon descending to Birling Gap for a pot of tea in the cafe.

Walking out of the Gap, we climbed up onto a series of cliffs known as The Seven Sisters; a rollercoaster of a leg where the best of the erosion can be seen, with large cracks appearing along the edge, waiting to be claimed by the sea.

We were surprised by our pace, and compared to our visit a couple of years back, astonished how quickly we were completing it. Soon, we were off the coastline, at Cuckmere Haven, and heading inland along the banks of the Cuckmere River to the Information Centre at Exceat.

From here, we left the South Downs Way to explore the meandering riverbank to Litlington. In hindsight, not the best idea, on this stretch, it is a particularly uninteresting section, with a faint smell of sewerage. The only “highlight” was a closer view of the white horse chalk carving.

We were obviously going to arrive before Alfriston Youth Hostel would be ready to greet us, so the difficult decision was made to divert to the Plough and Harrow pub. For those interested in real ale, a new company for me; Dark Star and a light little number called Hophead. For more, got to the Dark Star Brewing website.

Even with the diversion, we were still too early to check in, so spent an hour snoozing in the hostel lounge.

Today had been a day where we had passed a higher number of odd characters than usual, and this fact was compounded by the idiot we were sharing a dorm with that night. It soon became clear he was disliked by the people who ran the hostel, and as he stood in the room, preaching to a couple of unsuspecting Pole and South African in the dorm about the evils of capitalism and how he had been at the protests in London, this spurred Jim and I to shower, change and be heading back to the pub an hour before we had booked our table for dinner!

Dinner was excellent, and a few more Hopheads were sunk, as we basked in the satisfaction of deciding to make the trip south for the weekend.

Later, our room mates, plus a Polish girl, arrived for dinner to finish off the remaining legs of the sacrificed lamb, having escaped the clutches of the revolutionary bore. But it didn’t take long for the idiot to track them down half an hour later to discuss the cause of the industrial revolution. Our cue to retreat for a quick drink back at the hostel before one of us said something...

Date: 05/11/11
Region: South Downs National Park
Status: Equals
Description: Eastbourne - Beachy Head - Birling Gap - Seven Sisters - Cuckmere Haven - Exceat - Litlington - Alfriston YHA - Overcast, dry, 5hrs, 16.5km
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

Tasmania Blues

2011-11-04T18:20:00.000Z

Before I go off on a bit of a rant, I better reiterate something right away; I bloody love Australia! I adore its varied landscape, its unique flora and fauna, its climate, and, for a lot of Pom’s this would stick in the throat, I even find its people engaging and friendly. I wouldn’t have visited it eleven times in the past fifteen years otherwise.

Now here’s comes the “but”…

I’m having an issue with Tasmania. There is no denying it is a stunningly beautiful island, blessed with many natural and historic attractions, and it possesses some of the best bushwalking trails in Australia.

My problem, though, is that if you don’t have the luxury of a car, it is a truly frustrating place to travel around!

Take my on going plans to return at the end of March 2012 to tread the Overland Track;

The north and south terminus; Ronny Creek and Lake St. Clair respectively, are both remote locations, so you look for guidance on how best to get to and from the start and end. Many websites offering advice, including the official track website, point to Tassie Link as a guaranteed cheap option. Buoyed by the news that there is a public transport system to get you there, you then visit their website, where they offer links to the bus timetables for many of the bushwalking areas. All very promising so far… now this is where it gets problematic. Literally ALL of the bushwalking timetables are dead links, and the regional ones that do work are up to two years out of date!

I decided to email the company to remark about the missing links and misleading information and at the same time, request updated timetables be sent to me. I received one of the timetables promptly, not the two required, and there were no comments or apologies for the state of the appalling website. It was no real help to find the bus service to the walk is infrequent, and looking at my flight dates, quite unworkable for me on the return leg. This is down to another peculiar anomaly with their service; the days it can take you to the start don’t compliment the usual 7 day hike, so when you arrive at Lake St. Clair, there is no service to pick you up (unless you leave Ronny Creek on a Wednesday, and finish on a Tuesday, that is!). It leads those suspicious conspiracy theorists, like me, to wonder if it is a ploy to keep tourists in the region for longer than they feel the need to, but, whatever their motives, it’s a pretty poor service for what is deemed the peak season!

When looking at their website, I can accept that Tassie Link are blasé about the service they could potentially be providing, even unprofessional, but what cannot be excused is the many tourism and national park websites that direct you to them; have they actually ever visited www.tassielink.com.au?

Tasmania’s saving grace is private charter companies like Outdoor Tasmania. This form of transport appears to be my only real option. I found the owner, Paul Grigg, and his wife, to be very understanding regarding my late cancellation last year. Paul even offered me a discount if I travelled again in the next couple of months. Of course, living on the other side of the world, I couldn’t take him up on the kind offer, but I have remembered this and decided to use them again for that reason. Given the problems I’m having, it was hardly a surprise when I received a reply to my booking request, telling me they weren’t available that week!, At least they provided me with some other alternatives. and despite not being able to accommodate me this time, I would still recommend them for anyone else.

And so, moving on to another company; Tiger Wilderness Bushwalker Bus. The owner, Helen, quickly gave me a quote, and I took the plunge and booked. The charter option isn’t without its niggle, though; the price is based on the number of passengers travelling. It’s a perfectly honest and reasonable way of calculating the fare, and potentially a very cheap method, but I am one person, and, as such, it leaves me sweating on other walkers signing up. I doubt it will come to this, but if they don’t, it could cost me 620 Aussie Dollars just to get to and from the track!

Oh well, at least it’s cash at the end of the trail, so no expense just yet, but best to keep all the digits crossed for the price to plummet. One thing is for sure, nothing is ever simple when it comes to getting around Tasmania.

#132 - Yes Tor and High Willhays

2011-10-28T23:00:00.000+01:00

Down in Devon for my big sisters 50th birthday, took my lil' sis and family up to Yes Tor and High Willhays on a day that defied the end of October!

Date: 28/10/11
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Lead
Description: car park - Rowtor – West Mill Tor – Yes Tor – High Willhays – Fordsland Ledge – Black Tor – Okehampton Common – Black Down - car park - Sunshine, clear visibility, 10.7km, 4 hours.
Type of Walk: Leading or Assisting

The perfect antidote!

2011-10-17T20:00:00.000+01:00

It’s alarming how rusty one gets after a month of inactivity. A busy start to the new academic year, has seen me dedicating far too much time to work, and neglecting the important things in life, like, err.. well, having a life for starters!

So this weekend getaway to the Star Inn Beer Festival in the Brecon Beacons was a necessary stress buster; mission was to ease that tightness in the chest, give my forehead some respite from that bloody wall, and forget those lost hours of sleep worrying about how to solve work issues without the use of fire arms!

I arrived at Talybont on Usk on Thursday afternoon, pitched the tent at the farm in the village, popped into Brecon for groceries, then returned to settle down to a chilled evening under canvas, with a meal of pasta, a bottle of Old Speckled Hen and Bram Stokers’ classic on my Kindle. Already, work, or “the anti-life”, was a fading memory.

Friday morning; as is often the way, I headed out with low cloud shrouding the tops of the hills, and as I descended back to the car a few hours later, the sun showed its face, the mist cleared and it was a glorious day!

The promise of sunny intervals certainly looked a broken one when I set off from the car park near Taf Fechan Forest, along the Taff Trail towards Neaudd Reservoir. I then followed the rocky Roman road that passes above the filter house. Instead of continuing on to Bwlch ar y Fan, the pass nestled between Cribyn and Fan y Big, I turned right and followed a stream known as Nant y Gloesydd. The ascent was boggy, and my fitness was showing as I blew a little too hard on a relatively gentle climb of 220 metres in just under two kilometres.

Leaving the stream, I soon reached the cairn at Pile of Stones. I was in a respectable mist, good enough cover to warrant the use of a compass to carry on to Blaen Caerfanell, along the Beacons Way.

The gloom did not last, though; on the return along Craig y Fan Ddu, the dull green slopes of Cerrig Edmwnt, to my left, were suddenly illuminated by the emerging sunshine. Off with my Paramo jacket and on with my sun hat, as summer was appearing to be making one last curtain call.

With a change in the weather, I lingered longer on the trail. I diverted to one of the waterfalls on my descent, and, sheltered from any hint of a breeze, I enjoyed my lunch in a sun trap. What a beautiful day! All in all, only seven and a half kilometres, but how good it was to be out!

Saturday; Jon and Jo had arrived the night before, and after breakfast and witnessing the demise of Wales in the rugby, at the hands of a sorry French side, we went off for a short walk close to Talybont.

Allt yr Esgair is a minor hill, standing at 393m, but it commands a wonderful view. Starting from the car park on the A40, South east of Llansantffraed, it’s a gentle climb along the hill’s western slopes, through shady woodland and grassy meadow. At the walk’s northern tip, you start to see glimpses of Pen y Fan and Cribyn in the distance, whilst as you turn to climb south to the summit, Llangorse Lake and Mynydd Llangorse come into view on the other side of the hill.

The ascent hugs a crumbling drystone wall right to the summit. From the top, I could easily spot my Orange Quasar tent in the field over two kilometres away, as the crow flies. Reassuring, should I ever find myself having to be picked up by Search and Rescue when I’m out wild camping.

This was a short walk of only five and a half kilometres, and a couple of hours, but who cares, it was another cracking day in the sunshine, and this weekend was all about getting away from the stresses of the past month. It certainly hit the spot!

The exorcism continues….

2011-09-25T17:09:00.000+01:00

With one demon cast out, it is time to think about exorcising the other two. Don’t worry, I am not possessed by some mythical creature, I am, of course, referring to my very short, but, nonetheless, niggling, list of unfinished charity walks. The Ridgeway now behind me, and my flight booked for the Overland Track next April, my attention is drawn to the other trail on the list, the 117 mile Devon Coast to Coast.

Those that sponsored me for this one, back in 2008, might recall that I threw in the towel on the third morning at the 32 mile mark. Things conspired against me; the appalling weather and some troublesome footwear were a big factor but the major stumbling block, however, was a stubborn reluctance for Contour Holidays to even attempt to reschedule my accommodation bookings. The opportunity to shorten my mileage for a day, or take a days respite from one of the wettest summers I can recall, would have given me a fighting chance to carry on.

One slight issue with grabbing this particular devil by the horns any time soon is finding 7-8 days to fit it in. After the Ridgeway, I was eager to tackle another multi day walk as soon as possible, but a look at my holiday allowance doesn’t give me much of a choice; one day unaccounted for between now and the end of March 2012!

The only option in the foreseeable future appears to be the 10 day Christmas break. My initial thoughts are that this has more negatives than positives; An obvious disadvantage is the winter days are shorter and accommodation over the holiday period might be few and far between. I don’t want to make the same mistake of booking through a company, like Contours, again, but I am aware I may have no choice. There is the camping option. Well, there is on the moors, at least, but the 32 mile stretch between Dartmoor and Exmoor might prove impossible. Also, there is no doubt, the extra gear required for winter wild camping would slow me down.

So, it doesn’t look good. I will definitely have to think a little bit harder about this one. Watch this space..

Ridgeway Revisited

2011-09-14T08:01:00.000+01:00

My journey along the 87 miles of The RIdgeway National Trail.

Ridgeway day 6 – Wendover to Ivinghoe Beacon

2011-09-09T23:06:00.000+01:00

Eager to finish today, I caught an early train from Uxbridge, and was leaving Wendover by half past nine. This is a fine village, a little busy, but it has good architecture and a couple of recommended curry houses. It is worth a look if you haven’t been before.

For me, it was all about hitting the trail as quickly as possible. A particular annoyance is that the finishing point is not the end of the walk, there are a couple of kilometres into Ivinghoe for a bus to Aylesbury, to catch a train home. All in all, that can take a good two to three hours if you miss the bus.

I headed south-east out of Wendover, seemingly in the wrong direction. Picking up a partly sealed road passed Boswell’s Farm, where I turned left, I was ascending Cocks Hill through more woodland, on a good path. As I slipped into the edge of Wendover Woods, the trail joins a deep muddy track, that is not so easy on the feet. It’s high sides, akin to that of Grim’s Ditch, gave me the sense it was an ancient route, and the fact it is also part of the Icknield Way testifies to that. The Icknield Way is another famous byway, some would argue older than the Ridgeway.

Briefly, I came out of the darkness, but was soon enveloped again, as I entered Pavis Wood. In the humidity of the day, the woods were quite muggy, and I felt I could really do with some of those ridge paths on days one to three.

After 1.5 kilometres, I reached a road which was a respite from the humidity.

Through the hamlet of Hastoe, the path diverts left, taking me from its original route, to visit Tring Park. It was 11:30am, and on the grassy corner of the quiet road, I stopped for a short lunch break before heading for the park.

The Tring Park reroute is much better than the permissive bridleway it has replaced; a long tree lined avenue offers glimpses of the Town of Tring below.

Leaving the park, the heart was encouraged by my first glimpse of the end. As I passed a trig point positioned on the edge of a field, it made sense to me that the nearest one should be visible in the distance, and true enough, there it was on Ivinghoe Beacon.

It certainly put a spring in the step, even if it was still a good couple of hours away! Winding my way down to Tring Railway Station, I was looking at my watch and realising I had so much time to spare before the bus went at 4.30pm. Once passed the railway station and off the main road, I stopped to have some coffee, sitting on a bench positioned with a vista looking back to Wendover Woods.

After the break, up into some more woodland and the hints of the start of another earthworks named Grim’s Ditch. The trail veered away from these early signs, but rejoined the ditch later, when the path broke free of the foliage onto open down.

Before then, I met a guy heading purposefully in the opposite direction. We stopped and spoke for a time; turns out he had just finished and was heading back to Wendover, but he had done it in three days, bivvying along the route. He boasted he was a mountaineer and that he had done a last leg of 34 miles, and it was in his nature to push himself, I quietly thought to myself that there was another description for him, and it began with a “W”, had a “K” in it and ended with an “R”!

Out onto the open down, a refreshing breeze livened me. I met a couple heading back to Tring Station, who had finished the second half from Goring to the Beacon.

We remarked how different each half is; they preferred the greater views of the first half to the woodland walking of the Chilterns but I see the charms of both. We did agree it was good to see the back of the power station!

On further, I reached the last hill before the final push. Up Steps Hill, passed the remarkable bowl like feature called Incombe Hole, I headed out over the brow, through a dense but stunted growth of trees, over onto the other side. Sweeping down to the road where a sign tells me the beacon is only 500 metres away, and reminds me how far it has been since Overton Hill, I stopped for a photo opportunity basking in my achievement.

Then it was on to the beacon itself. It was a strange feeling climbing that final chalk hill, and standing at the cairn marking the end of the trail.

I was very proud! I certainly didn’t think I was fit enough to do it, and initially my goal was simply finding out if I had the stomach for a long distance walk. Finishing it proved beyond all doubt that “yes, I did!”

After the mess that I made of the trip to Australia back in April, my self confidence had been given a welcome boost and doubts I had about my capabilities were quashed. I felt rejuvenated!

I hung around drinking in the views for a few minutes, but was mindful that I still had another couple of kilometres to get to the bus stop in Ivinghoe; a long arduous final walk on a very busy road. With plenty of time, I arrived in the village, and managed to get the bus an hour before I anticipated!

Ridgeway day 5 – Lewknor to Wendover

2011-09-08T21:14:00.000+01:00

Today, I felt like I was in my back yard, having trodden this area many many times before. This made it no less daunting, knowing I had ascents of three hills; Lodge, Whiteleaf and Coombe, before I descended to the village of Wendover.

After a quick shop to pick up a new memory card, I was soon dropped off by the Oxford Tube coach, and back on the trail at just gone ten. There was a threat of rain in the air, but this failed to materialise, and I spent the day without the need for waterproofs.

The wide by-way runs north-eastwards below the ridge, and its lower altitude probably accounts for it being so muddy. In sections, it is very straight, and a little off putting when you see the distance laid out in front of you.

There was plenty to occupy my mind, though. Once again, I was spotting prime sloe picking spots, and even chanced upon a walnut tree, full of fruit, although not quite ready to be harvested.

Passed the Chinnor turn off, which feels like an age to reach but is actually only an hour, the trail gradually starts to climb, and turn east. I found myself, without realising the height I had gained, on a bridleway with a steep wooded bank falling away to the left, and still rising to my right. This is Wain Hill, a section of Bledlow Great Wood. It is beautiful, wild and quite dark.

Eventually, I emerged from the woods, and out into a grassy field, where I got my first site of Lodge Hill in the distance. At a height of 211 metres, it is not a giant by any stretch of the imagination, but it has a short steep climb on a slippery chalk surfaced path that left me breathing a little more heavier than I had done previously today.

I arrived at the top at midday, and took lunch. Stretching out before me was the next objective, the walk across the railways, into the outskirts of Princes Risborough, and up to Whiteleaf Hill.

I was finding today particularly tough. My body was feeling all sorts of aches; the most disturbing was an intermittent pain in the pectoral regions of my chest. Was the body beginning to break down? Had I attempted this walk too soon?

Princes Risborough ticked off, I made the one hundred metre ascent of Whiteleaf Hill, a lofty height of about 240 metres! Here, is one of the finest views on this stretch, high above the town, looking out across the Vale of Aylesbury. The summit also has a Neolithic barrow! Archaeologists found the remains of a man, and estimates put the burial at 5,500 years ago.

Stepping back into the woods, I soon descended to the Plough at Cadsden. It’s a good pub, excellent food, but as is normally the way, I always arrive here too late for lunch.

The Ridgeway now passes around the base of Pulpit Hill, the location for another Iron Age hill fort, but this cannot be seen without a side trip. Unlike those on the first half of the trail, this one is buried in the woods, and difficult to make out when you visit it.

I carried on, out to the perimeter of the estate of Chequers, the country residence of the Prime Minister. I always find it amazing that the footpath crosses this estate, especially in these days of heightened security, but still we are allowed to, albeit with closed circuit television and the polite warnings that “This is a protected site under Section 128 of the Serious Organised Crime and Police Act 2005. Trespass on this site is a criminal offence.”

Almost finished for the day, a forty minute climb back up onto the ridge, through the usual dense woodland, and out onto one of my favourite places in the Chilterns; Coombe Hill.

The view from here is probably the best of the day. It is also the last opportunity for you to “marvel” at the Didcot Power Station! To the north-east, I get my first look at what awaits me on the next leg.

Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t conducive to a good photograph today, so I made do with a self portrait sitting below the impressive monument commemorating the locals who died in the Boer War in South Africa between 1899 and 1902.

All downhill from here now, a half hour descent to the village of Wendover, where I would catch the train home. Once again, I timed it right, and waited no more than ten minutes to be homeward bound.

Twelve miles tomorrow, despite the fatigue and aches, I was feeling confident.

Ridgeway day 4 – Streatley to Lewknor

2011-09-07T20:02:00.000+01:00

After my rest day, I was back on the train to Goring and Streatley. Some would argue that heading home and commuting for the final three days isn’t really in the spirit of long distance walking, but considering I am on a budget and there is no cheap place to stay for the rest of the trail, it made perfect sense.

Leaving Goring and Streatley proved more troublesome than expected. I badly needed a cashpoint to be able to get the bus home later, and the only one in town wasn’t working and the bank didn’t open on Wednesday! The joys of living in a small town! I eventually had to make an unnecessary purchase at a local store to get some cash back.

I eventually headed north out of town, through the picturesque, and affluent village of South Stoke.

The route is flanked by the River Thames and the railway to Oxford, but eventually, as the line crosses the river thanks to the ingenuity of Isambard Kingdom Brunel and one of his bridges, I was left to enjoy the tranquillity of the river.

It’s a pleasant flood plain I was crossing, I remember it being a lot boggier five years ago, and it was a nice way to while away the morning. Eventually I reached North Stoke, and it was time to leave the river behind.

It took until midday to reach the impressive Grim’s Ditch. A 5 mile / 8 kilometre late Iron Age / Early Roman earthwork, from Mongewell to Nettlebed, there are many examples of these ditches across Britain, but their role is a mystery. Whilst too small to be for fortification, they may have been built to signify the borders of territories. We’ll probably never know, but in modern times these earthworks make for pleasant walks.

This section is a favourite of mine. In Spring, the ditch has a splendid display of bluebells and fresh foliage. Now, being in the early throws of Autumn, the leaves aren’t beginning to turn just yet, but I’m sure in the next few weeks, it will be a riot of golden browns.

It took all of an hour and three quarters, including a short lunch break, to reach Nuffield where the trail leaves the ditch.

My legs were holding up; I was pretty impressed by the repairs I made on my left heel, which had blistered on the march into Streatley, and I strode on confidently.

From Nuffield, it was straight across a golf course, always particularly satisfying to me that we have access to ramble across these private places, to the disdain of those playing!

This particular leg, from Nuffield, is where the visualisation of an ancient highway is hard to imagine. I find it is best to forget about the historical references to this trail for a while until you get nearer Watlington, when a wide and straight track makes the history more real.

But that was another couple of hours away; across the A423, I noticed another pub fallen on hard times and looking for someone to let it. I remember five years ago enjoying one of the best rack of lambs I’ve ever had in there.

Onwards and into a changing scene of both open farm land and woodland. One particular surprise is arriving at an 11th Century church; St. Botolphs. It is worth a stop to look around, if it is open, and the grave yard has a handy bench to rest up awhile.

I was well in familiar territory now, having walked in this area many times.

As I crossed a field, I looked back through the hedgerows and could still see Didcot Power Station. I know from previous experience that this blot on the landscape is actually visible right up until the end of the penultimate day!

Later, as I headed down to where the Ridgeway meets the Swan Way, outside Watlington, my camera memory card decided to have a “read error” and give up. For the remaining miles I was unable to take any more photographs or video, and I had the worry that the 71 I had taken today would be lost! Repeated attempts to rectify it proved fruitless.

I reached the turn off for Watlington, but chose to carry on for a couple more miles, to the M40 junction where I could catch a bus back towards home. My timing was impeccable, the bus arrived five minutes after I arrived and my connecting train had me at home in under an hour!

Ridgeway day 3 – Down Barn Farm to Streatley

2011-09-05T23:00:00.000+01:00

I should have seen the signs! When I wandered into the kitchen for breakfast, I asked the owner where I could throw my rubbish, and she pointed to an open bin in the corner, buzzing with flies!

I sat down and had a cup of tea, as she cooked my full English, and once I had stirred, I noticed a hardened piece of marmalade on the spoon. Now I was really worried! Little did I realise, that when I left the farm, my stomach was a ticking time bomb!

Back on the trail at 8am, I was up at the 25 mile mark of Sparsholt Firs within half an hour. It took me another hour and a half to reach the A338 where I had originally wanted to end my second day, but couldn’t as there was no space at the local hostel. I was doing well, and hitting my targets.

Unaware of my impending problem I marched passed the opportunity of the only loo on the trail, before Streatley, over 13 miles away. Half an hour later, I started to feel a little nauseous, and I set my sights to rest at Wantage Monument. When I reached there, I was starting to feel really ill and I was starting to scan the bushes for an impromptu toilet break. Just my luck that this was the exact time that a class of bloody school kids turned up on mountain bikes and preceded to wait here for the stragglers to catch up! I hastily packed up and laboured straight for the privacy of the nearest woodland!

So, the remainder of the day was tough. Although my stomach had now settled, I was torn between eating again and risking further upset, or carrying on without until the Youth Hostel at Streatley, still over ten miles away. I snacked on some dried fruit and nuts, probably not the most ideal of choices, but a freeze dried spaghetti bolognese didn’t seem an option.

I pushed on as fast as I could, passed the Didcot Power Station, over the wide ridge that is Bury Down. It was a long day in changeable conditions which constantly left me donning my rain jacket, stowing it away, then donning it again; tedious.

Across another major road, and towards, what is marked on my map, the only water tap before Streatley. It was to be a stop for a brew, but I was to find that the tap had been removed, so now I had to conserve the little water I had left with 6 miles still to go. I was really enjoying this day!

By the time I had finally started to descend the seemingly never ending lane down to Streatley, I was really struggling. My feet were starting to ache, and a mile out I had to stop to attend to a blister on my left heel. It really was a wonderful sight to spot the Streatley YHA, and hobble in at about 4.30pm.

I had already made my decision to take a rest day. The plan for the remainder of this trail was to head home tomorrow, drop off all the gear I would no longer need (which was the majority), as I was now near enough to make day trips. I would return to Goring on Wednesday to start the next leg to Watlington.

Ridgeway day 2– Ogbourne St. George to Down Barn Farm

2011-09-04T23:00:00.000+01:00

Back in 2006, this is where I called it a day. I awoke in the morning to give Simon the news that the hip injury had not eased overnight. I headed home to pick up the car, whilst Simon carried on. My role in this charity challenge was now as support vehicle.

Returning to 2011; After what may be considered a leisurely ten miles yesterday, ahead of me lay sixteen(ish). Fortunately, there was no great hurry to get there, and as this section is rich in history, the many side attractions can lengthen the distance and duration further.

I started in the rain, at 9am, after a hearty breakfast. I had intended to do a little side trip to the abandoned Medieval village of Snap, but that must have slipped my mind, as I strolled along the lanes of the ridge, spotting all the free food that lined the track. I spotted the usual blackberries, damsons, sloes, apples. There were some I wasn’t sure about so always best to leave well alone! A time when I wish I had my “Food for Free” book with me!

First major historic site was Liddington Castle, another Iron Age hill fort, slightly off the trail, but well worth a diversion. I didn’t bother this time, though, and continued while the weather had brightened. Although, as I said earlier, there was no hurry, I was mindful of the band of rain expected later in the afternoon and I would rather not be pitching up in the wet.

Shortly after the hill fort, I descended to cross another, much younger but still significant highway; the M4. I had set my heart on reaching Fox Hill on the other side of the motorway by midday, and I was bang on target.

As I approached a well known landmark just before the hill, the Shepherds Rest pub, I was disappointed to find that any intentions a rambler may have of a quick drink are soon scuppered as it is now an Indian Restaurant! Sadly, while you cannot have too many curry houses, too many pubs are closing down in the countryside, or becoming eateries.

So, I carried on up Fox Hill, and an hour later I stopped, more through fatigue than design, to brew up and have some lunch. A freeze dried meal of Thai Chicken with Rice, not too bad, and it set me up for the rest of the day.

By two in the afternoon I reached the excellent Wayland’s Smithy, a fine example of a chambered burial tomb nestled within a shady and very pleasant copse. I stopped for a brew and to break out the zinc oxide as a precautionary measure for a hot spot on my left heel. All patched up, feet suitably rested, I picked myself up and began the final leg.

From here, there is one last major landmark on the trail before I would reach the end of the day. It is another couple of miles to reach the hill fort known as Uffington Castle. A short excursion from here will enable you to visit the more famous chalk carving that is the Uffington Whitehorse.

For me, though, it was too much of a diversion, and it is something better seen from the air, or below the ridge.

The afternoon drew on, and I started scanning the right of the track for Down Barn Farm. I swear I will never get used to working with 1:40000 scale maps, compared to 1:25000. It’s that silly perception that a destination doesn’t look far away and the frustration at realising how little I have actually travelled!

Eventually, an hour after Uffington, I spotted the turn off, but I could see no farm! I soon realised it was a half kilometre walk down a very grassy lane to a turn off where Down Barn Farm could be found nestled below the hill I would ascend tomorrow.

The camping facilities were basic, a toilet back at the house, and a tap in the paddock. I made myself comfortable for the early evening, chilling with a book. I timed dinner just right, just as I had polished off my Chicken and Vegetable Pasta and packed away the cooking gear, the heavens opened and I retreated to my tent. That was my lot for the night.

Ridgeway day 1 - Avebury to Ogbourne St. George

2011-09-03T23:00:00.000+01:00

Before I start I should mention that I have made no meaningful attempt to describe the numerous prehistoric landmarks that are dotted along the early stages of this route, instead I have included links to the excellent www.stone-circles.org.uk or www.megalithic.co.uk website, which gives a much more comprehensive description of each one. Similarly, with other points of interest, I have tried to provide the best links to delve deeper should you wish to do so.

Why they picked Overton Hill as the terminus for the Ridgeway National Trail, I will never know. Sure, in ancient times, it had an impressive Neothilic Stone and Timber Circle, the remains of which are known as The Sanctuary, but honestly, given that the official start is essentially a non-descript car park on the opposite side of the very busy A4 and not well serviced by public transport, it seems an odd decision. To the west, one and a half kilometres away, the fine village of Avebury, with its world renowned stone circle, would be a more obvious candidate, and why it wasn’t chosen baffles me! Whatever the reason, Avebury was where I was to start.

I disembarked opposite the Red Lion public house, at about half past eight in the morning; the end of a two hour journey, by train and bus. With only a ten mile first leg, I had plenty of time to have a look around Avebury Stone Circle, the largest in the world. The whole area is littered with significant Neolithic and early Bronze Age, such as Silbury Hill, and the West Kennet Long Barrow.

So to the walk; As I mentioned before, the official start is fairly insignificant. It is a much more auspicious departure to stride along the grand sarsen double stone row that is The West Kennet Avenue; you truly get the feeling you are embarking on an historic trail.

After a kilometre and a half, I reached Overton Hill and the signpost that reminds me Ivinghoe Beacon is a daunting 87 miles away.

To the right, there are more ancient remains, this time the Bronze Age Seorfon Barrows; already the wealth of pre-history is making the head spin!

I took lunch at midday, at the Iron Age hill fort named Barbury Castle, the name derived from “Beran Byrig” which meant Bera’s Hill. Bera was a Saxon chief, who, in AD556, is reputed to have defeated the Britons here. It was here that I bumped into two guys and a girl heading the other way, but doing the 6 days across consecutive weekends. They had stayed at the place I was heading to and mentioned it now had a bunkhouse. With rain forecast tonight, that sounded a lot more inviting.

Instead of taking the recognised route of the ancient byway, which would be a road walk, the trail heads across Smeathies Ridge. It is the first taster of the big sky feel you get on the first half of the walk. It was a straightforward few hours ramble down into Ogbourne St. George, although I wasn’t fooled by a sign saying 0.5 miles; keeping to the trail proper, it was another forty five minutes before I entered the village from the south-eastern edge.

Arrived at Fox Lynch farm about three in the afternoon and upgraded to the bunkhouse with breakfast for £20. Simple, but comfortable and warm, with shower, television, and kettle.

Very happy with the ten and a half miles today, everything still in working order, no problems with feet. Later, I headed off to the “Inn with the Well”, the local pub, for a curry and a couple of real ales to celebrate.

Back on the trail again..

2011-08-29T11:16:00.001+01:00

A bank holiday weekend spent at home? Unthinkable! Well, not really when expensive ambitions dictate you have to sacrifice weekends away. I still had to get out of the house, though, even if it wasn’t somewhere wild, and I was determined to go walking after four weeks without donning my hiking boots.

Up early Sunday, I drove to West Wycombe in Buckinghamshire. My pack laden with all the gear for the start of the Ridgeway National Trail on Saturday, I reintroduced myself with a 8.5mi/14km hike to Lodge Hill and back. No dramas to report from the walk; the weight I carried, 13kg, was comfortable, and I averaged a healthy pace of over 4.5km per hour. Although the legs were beginning to stiffen when I reached the car, it has instilled a little more confidence that I can complete a fair portion of the Ridgeway’s 85 miles, if not it all.

Ridgeway National Trail

2011-08-25T21:31:00.001+01:00

On the subject of the Ridgeway, I still have plans to walk it in September, despite doubts about my fitness to complete it. I’ve loaded up the rucksack with everything I’ll need, and it’s actually not too bad, weighing in at 13kg so I’ll give it a go!

I’ve posted this short film of the Ridgeway walk in 2006, on YouTube already, but thought I would take a look at another online video community; Vimeo. I like it so far, the embed facility is a lot tidier than YouTube, and the quality is excellent. It seems to be the choice of the professionals, so who am I to argue?

Ridgeway National Trail from Paul Buck on Vimeo.

Karijini National Park

2011-08-23T21:39:00.001+01:00

It has been over a decade since I last visited Karijini National Park, in the remote Pilbara region of Western Australia.

Stumbling across this little video has brought the memories flooding back! What a special place it is. If you ever find yourself in Western Australia, I urge you to make the effort to see this wonderful national treasure close up! You’ll fall in love with it!

I just had to share this;

Images Of Karijini National Park from Michael Fletcher on Vimeo.

Battling apathy and getting fit for the hills

2011-08-16T21:58:00.000+01:00

I have many faults, but one of my biggest is, undoubtedly, that I am more of a planner than a doer. I have lost count of the times I have joined a gym with good intentions, formulated a master plan to gain peak physical fitness, only for my enthusiasm to tail off after a couple of weeks, and grind to a complete halt within the month.

Given that I loathe gyms; I find them intimidating and I bore quickly of the repetitiveness, why was I contemplating another membership earlier this week? What had changed?

Well, the past month I had been scanning through various blogs and articles which had been emphasising the importance of fitness in preparation for a long distance walk. Of course, I knew all this beforehand, but upon viewing some You Tube videos made by some Bibbulmun End to Enders, it became blatantly obvious to me that to realise my ambition of walking that track I would need far greater focus to achieve it.

More immediately, I have plans to walk the 85 miles of the Ridgeway National Trail, in September; I made my mind up a couple of weeks back to revisit it, but with under three weeks now to go, I am wondering if I am fit enough. I had intentions to head out every evening, after work, but, sadly, I have fallen foul of apathy and have been guilty of constantly saying "I'll start tomorrow". As a result, apart from my short daily journey to and from work, I haven't even been walking for two weekends!

Yet another factor, I have booked my flight for my third attempt at the Overland Track next year. This time I have to complete it; I must make the effort to be at my fittest because I don’t think I could muster up the enthusiasm to try for a fourth time!

With these things in mind, I felt I owed it to myself to try again, and I made an appointment to visit my local Virgin Active.

Fortunately, I saw sense in the nick of time; gyms just aren’t for me and committing to a contract would eventually mean throwing money away. So I cancelled my “tour” and sought an alternative.

I realised that all I would have been requiring from a gym would be a cardio workout, and squandering over £30 a month to use a treadmill or cross trainer seemed both extravagant and irresponsible. Instead, I purchased a rowing machine for the price of 3 months membership. With some weights sitting idly in the drawer under my bed, and the British countryside waiting to be explored, what more do I need?

I'm going to follow, as closely as possible, a fitness programme found in the book; "the Ultimate Hillwalking Skills handbook". Published in association with Trail Magazine, it’s a programme I can see myself keeping to. Best of all, I reckon the programme can be followed without any need to set foot inside one of those awful places, and by increasing the number of times I indulge in my love of walking, I am hopeful this one will hold my attention!

You Tube Channel

2011-08-08T13:00:00.002+01:00

I have finally embraced the world of "You Tube", created a channel and uploaded my first video! How exciting!

Go to http://www.youtube.com/user/paulgbuck to see a short video on the Ridgeway National Trail attempt made by Simon Ackroyd (successfully) and I (unsuccessfully), back in 2006.

I'll try my best to keep it updated with interesting hiking related videos.

A "To Do" List…

2011-08-02T14:02:00.001+01:00

… of unfinished business;

The Overland Track, The Devon Coast to Coast and The Ridgeway National Trail.

My tribulations on the Overland are well documented on this blog, but the other trails are other charity challenge failures that stick in the throat. With a date now set to return to Tasmania in 2012, I have decided it is about time to revisit the other two.

Three years ago, my Devon Coast to Coast attempt was curtailed on the morning of day three, after 32 miles; this was a combination of one of the wettest summers and some badly blistered feet piled on top of my decision to use Contours Holidays to arrange my accommodation and baggage transfers. The latter meant I could not reschedule en route and factor in shorter legs to give me time to recover. The irony is that a day after I stopped, I felt I could have picked up where I left off, but the moment was lost.

Five years ago, I retired from the Ridgeway National Trail after 12 miles; Forced to compensate for a foot injury sustained two weeks beforehand, in training, I inadvertently developed a hip problem that stayed with me for five months. My friend, Simon, went on to complete the 87 miles in six days, with me acting as a support vehicle, supplying cups of tea and transporting gear along the route.

It is The Ridgeway that I will be returning to first. This time, I will begin from the Stone Circle in Avebury, and, as before, will stay in a combination of campsites and hostels.

The itinerary looks like this;

Day 1: Avebury to Ogbourne St. George – 10.7 miles
Day 2: Ogbourne St. George to Wantage - 19.8 miles
Day 3: Wantage to Streatley - 13.6 miles
Day 4: Streatley to Watlington - 15.3 miles
Day 5: Watlington to Wendover - 17 miles
Day 6: Wendover to Ivinghoe Beacon - 11.8 miles

With ambitious plans of greater distances in the future, the main purpose of this walk is not so much to complete the journey I failed to finish, it is more to see if I still have the appetite to walk a long distance trail. We shall see how I fare.

#131 – Mynydd Llangorse

2011-07-30T17:44:00.002+01:00

In the Brecon Beacons this weekend to celebrate the wedding of my friends, Jon and Jo. I was asked to lead a short walk for those guests who were only invited to the evening reception. Jon had chosen us a pleasant circular route, that circuited Mynydd Llangorse, but I tinkered with it to take us onto the top of the 515 metre high hill to enjoy the views, rather than round it.

In all, there were eleven of us. We parked at the Llangorse Activity Centre, a little off the published route, but we were soon on track after an initial climb through a field full of horses, more than I had ever seen in one place, owned by the Centre’s stables. For a couple of kilometres, we skirted the north-western slopes of the hill, following a straightforward bridleway to Cockit Hill. From here, we ascended the grassy path to the remains of an Iron Age hill fort, where we took a short break for everyone to catch their breath.

The rest of the 135 metre ascent to the top of Mynydd Llangorse was simple enouugh, up a clear path lined with ripe bilberry bushes. The gentle slopes to the west were a sharp contrast to the steep drop to the east. On a good day, I’m certain the vistas are stunning, but a haze hid the Brecon Beacons in the distance. Nevertheless there were fine views of Llangorse Lake.

The route is obvious, a wide path crosses the ridge in a southerly direction, all the way to the trig point at 506 metres. Then it was half a kilometre to pick up the bridleway we were originally supposed to have been on had we followed the original route. We then followed this route for the remainder of the walk. Through a pleasant stretch of high conifer woodland and then an overgrown section of high ferns along the western slopes, we eventually reached the footpath that took us back down through the horses, and into the car park.

To sum up, if you are in the region for the weekend, and are looking for a short walk before heading home at lunchtime, then this is perfect.

Date: 30/07/11
Region: Brecon Beacons National Park
Status: Lead
Description: Llangorse Activity Centre – Cockit Hill – Hill Fort – Mynydd Llangorse Trig Point – Cwm Shenkin – Coed-y-perthi – Llangorse Activity Centre – Overcast, with Sunny spells later, 9km, 3 hours.
Type of Walk: Leading or Assisting

One last crack...

2011-07-28T16:53:00.000+01:00

Events in Tasmania, back in April, had left a sour taste in my mouth and the following weeks have seen me mulling over the decision as to whether I should give the Overland Track another go. How fickle I can be because last Sunday, I had resigned myself to the fact that I had to move on to pastures, or trails, new.

On Monday, with no definite destination in my mind, I was scrolling through my Outlook calendar, planning my leave for 2012. There was no getting away from it, because there, in the recesses, was the Overland Track, hopping up and down like an eager school kid at the back of the class, hand raised high, shouting; "ooh pick me! pick me!" Two failed attempts, it has become something of an obsession.

On Tuesday, determined to lay it to rest, I booked my flights for March 2012. My plan of attack has changed from my last attempt; This time I fly to Perth, and not Sydney, as it is both a shorter long haul flight, and my friends, Graham and Tess, have recently relocated here. I'll spend the best part of a week staying with relatives recovering from any ill effects of the journey, before embarking on another plane, this time to Launceston, via Melbourne.

Hopefully, with the walk ticked off, I'll return to Perth for another week, where I have also pencilled in time to sample the atmosphere of the Bibbulmun Track with an overnight hike.

So, this chapter still has a few more pages to run; I have extended my Just Giving page should anyone still want to donate to Epilepsy Action. Please go to http://www.justgiving.com/OverlandTrack2011 to do so.

One thing I'm fairly certain about. This is definitely (maybe) the last time! ;-)

The Bibbulmun Track

2011-07-21T19:21:00.002+01:00

I've long been inspired by reading books and watching documentaries about expeditions crammed with acts of endurance and exploration. Now, let me get something straight, I am not considering following in the footsteps of Scott and Shackleton; I'm in no way capable of crossing the Antarctic continent, for a start, and I'm not a huge fan of snow and extreme low temperatures (or extreme high ones, come to think of it). In addition, I am fast racking up a history of back complaints in my advancing years, resulting in failed walking attempts (my last foray to Tasmania a classic example). I have toyed for some time though, with the notion of tackling something I believe, all these problems withstanding, should be within my capabilities; a very long distance walk.

For the past few years I have owned a, rather cheesy, late nineties promotional DVD called "Getting on Track" and two guidebooks for a trail that has taken my fancy. The stumbling blocks with this trail are that it would mean taking three months off work due to it being almost one thousand kilometres long (hence the two guidebooks) and it is on the other side of the world in South-Western Australia. But here I am, seriously considering The Bibbulmun Track.

The Bibbulmun Track is one of the world's great long distance walk trails, stretching nearly 1000kms from Kalamunda, a suburb in the hills on the outskirts of Perth, to the historic town of Albany on the south coast. It passes through the heart of the scenic South West of Western Australia.

The official website proudly proclaims the track is for walkers only, which appeals to me; nothing worse than sharing a walk with mountain bikers and four wheel drive enthusiasts! It is also well maintained and signposted with distinctive yellow triangular markers symbolising the ‘Waugal’ (rainbow serpent of the aboriginal Dreaming). The route takes walkers through towering karri and tingle forests, down mist-shrouded valleys, over giant granite boulders and along breath-taking coastal heath lands. It passes through many of the most beautiful national parks of the South West forests and coastline.

Whereas my intentions are to become an “End to Ender”, the track has many points where you can enjoy a day’s hiking, or experience an overnighter, with forty-eight campsites, each consisting of a shelter, pit toilet, and a rainwater tank. For those attempting the whole route, it is also designed to drop in on the fringes of civilisation every week so they can resupply and enjoy the odd rest day. The track passes through the towns of Dwellingup, Collie, Balingup, Donnelly River Village, Pemberton, Northcliffe, Walpole, Peaceful Bay and Denmark.

I am not about to head off any time soon. I have pencilled in September 2013 for a couple of reasons; I would be hitting a half century that month and really want to do something significant to mark it, and setting a date over two years away will also give me time to prepare, financially more than physically.

My major worry is always going to be how I will swing it with work. You never know, I may be fortunate, but I do not envisage my employers giving me the green light to have three months off which will leave me to face a difficult decision. I am committed to making that decision if, or when, the time comes.

Closely related is my second issue; working out a budget for the trip and raising the cash to finance it, because the weak pound means Australia is no longer a budget destination for Brits as it was a decade ago. There is also the extra cash needed should circumstances mean I have no employment at the end of the adventure.

For the walk itself, one of my favourite pastimes is the route planning. Reading up and studying the route, ascertaining suitable points along the track to resupply, forwarding trail food parcels to those locations where it will be possible to do so.

Then there will be organising accommodation on rest days. These short stops will also be my chance to update my blog, post images and make all the necessary arrangements for the next leg.

Aside from the logistical side of preparation, there are obviously health and fitness considerations, both physically and psychologically. I have no doubt that staying motivated on a walk of that duration, dealing positively with those inevitable low points, and not giving up, will be a real issue; I have experienced that miserable place before on hikes lasting a number of days, I have also known it on a few of those lasting just the one!

Lots to think about; for more information on the track, please visit http://www.bibbulmuntrack.org.au/

“We all came out to Montreux…”

2011-07-16T23:54:00.000+01:00

It’s with a heavy heart that I left Zermatt today, especially on such a beautiful one. The horn was looking stunning in a cloudless sky. But I had to be making tracks for Lausanne, where I would be staying for one night, a short hop to the Montreux Jazz Festival.

There is a great positive in travelling alone; you can take decisions without consultation or consideration for others, and today was an example.

When I awoke this morning, I weighed a few things up; the weather forecast, from Sunday, for the next seven days was dire, could I justify the outlay of staying another week given the opportunities for walking were now less, and would the cost of rescheduling my flight prove the cheaper option. In the end, I decided that £213 to change my flight was the frugal one and so I am heading home tomorrow. I don’t regret this decision as I can either save some annual leave or head down to Dartmoor for a few days.

The British pound is in such a position now that travelling abroad is not cheap. This is the first time, in all my trips to Switzerland, that I have been shocked by the prices. They haven’t changed in Swiss Franc terms, you are just getting a lot less nowadays for your money.

Decision made, time to concentrate on the day ahead culminating in me seeing, for the first time, a band that would have a huge influence should I have a soundtrack to my life; Deep Purple. What better place to see them than in the town where they recorded one of their greatest albums - Machine Head, and where they wrote the song “Smoke on the Water” after the events that took place way back in 1971?

Arrived at The Lausanne Guesthouse two hours before check-in, which was frustrating as I was itching to get to the festival given the improvement the day was on last year. Managed to waste an hour having a couple of beers in a bar and then buying my train ticket.

By 4.30pm, I was pulling into Montreux. What a difference some sunshine makes to this festival! Although the food wasn’t up to previous years, there was plenty of live music, both street artists and on the stage in the park. In no time at all, the time came to enter the Stravinski Hall and take my place for Deep Purple, accompanied with a symphonic orchestra.

They didn’t disappoint; running through the old classics in the following set-list; Highway Star, Hard Lovin’ Man, Strange Kind of Woman, Rapture of the Deep, Woman From Tokyo, Contact lost, When a Blind Man Cries, The Well Dressed Guitar, Knocking at Your Back Door, Lazy, No One Came, Perfect Strangers, Space Truckin’, Smoke on the Water, and for an encore; Hush and Black Night. Quite a show, and when it came to Smoke on the Water, the crowd went wild. You couldn’t help but get caught up in it. What a night, and a great end to my Switzerland trip.

The train had me back in Lausanne by 12.30am. Alarm set early for the short ride to the airport and home.

A change of plan…

2011-07-15T16:33:00.000+01:00

A certain amount of faffing took place today. Mike and Humphrey left by 10am and I spent the morning updating the blog and planning the next week ahead. I must admit, it isn’t looking good on the weather front. Fiesch, where I will be by Sunday, looks like it will be heavy showers right up until I leave a week later.

With the glacier hike now off, due to the disastrous currency exchange meaning it would cost me a small fortune, I also cancelled my hostel booking in Interlaken as the forecast isn’t much good for the Bernese Oberland region and little point in me staying a night there.

So, once I have been to the Montreux Jazz Festival on Saturday, the walking options are up in the air. I have five new routes in mind, close to Fiesch, some low level valley which should be possible in the rain, and a couple of higher climbs should the forecast be wrong.

I finally left the hostel about midday, and went into town for a visit to the Matterhorn Museum and lunch. By about 2pm I was contemplating a return to the hostel, but as I strolled through the cemetery looking at the graves of fallen climbers, the weather perked up and so I decided to catch the cable car to Schwarsee.

By the time I had reached the station, my mind had changed again and I opted for the Glacier Paradise, perched at 3883 metres on the top of the Kleine Matterhorn for views of Breithorn (above), and the glaciers. You also get a different perspective of the Matterhorn and the Hornli ridge.

Travelling there by the highest cable car system in Europe, it is worth the fifty minute each way trip if you get a half price discount with your Swiss Pass.

This was the highest I have been outside of Nepal, but this was a lot easier to reach!

Once outside, where summer skiing is possible, you can see across to the Italian Alps and Mont Blanc (above) is obvious on the horizon. Unfortunately, the main viewing platform was shut because of a flood, but this did little to spoil the trip.

On the return journey, the Matterhorn was cloud free for the first time n a few days, and it was a beautiful final day for me in Zermatt.

Back to the hostel for dinner and to see if I had new room mates who might just fancy a trip to the Brown Cow later.

First things first though, packing to be done for a quick getaway tomorrow. Montreux and Deep Purple await!

#130 – Gornegrat to Zermatt

2011-07-14T22:00:00.000+01:00

The forecast promised us the sun would be out by midday. We didn’t hold out much hope. Despite this, Mike, Humphrey and I took the train up to Gornegrat with the intention of walking back to Zermatt.

After a cuppa at the top, we eventually started off at 11.30am. Throughout the walk we were given a glimpse of the glaciers as we made our way down, but the peaks rarely showed through the cloud. Walking in clouds does have its charms though, and it was nice to have a drop in temperature.

Shortly after scaling some precarious loose rock on a dubious path, we were paid handsomely for going “off road” when we came across an Ibex, which was a first for me.

Passing Rotenboden and Riffelberg stations, we diverted off before Riffelalp, along the woodland path Monika and I had taken a couple of days before.

Eventually, we turned off the path and descended to Ze Gassen where we took lunch and a welcome Rosti with egg and bacon.

From here, it was just a 400 metre descent into Zermatt, bringing our total to 1655 metres.

The evening out was a quiet one, we were all pretty knackered.

Date: 14/07/11
Region: Gornegrat, Switzerland
Status: Member
Description: Gornegrat (3112m) – Rotenboden (2815m) – Riffelberg (2582m) – Riffelalp (2300m) – Ze Gassen (2015m) – Zermatt (1634m) – Cloudy, 12.5km, 4hrs 30m. Ascent – 176m, Descent 1655m.
Type of Walk: International Personal Walking – Summer Conditions

Rain, rain and more rain…

2011-07-13T22:00:00.000+01:00

A very bad night for sleeping. Mike and Humphrey came back from the bars around 2.30am, minus Tom. 45 minutes later, Tom arrived, escorted by the police, who woke us up to see if we knew him. They then took his passport off him and told him to come to the police station at 8am. It seemed a little excessive for being drunk, so we were suspicious as to what Tom had actually done, and he was either unaware or hiding the reason.

So to today, Monika was leaving later so we had time for a walk. The weather was shocking, though, and we cut short our walk in the valley, and returned to Zermatt for lunch and to wander around. The weather worsened, there was hail at one point and thunder continued through most of the afternoon.

Eventually, we said our goodbyes and Monika headed off back to Zofingen on the train.

That evening, I headed into the town centre with Mike and Humphrey for a few beers.

Gornergrat and Riffelalp

2011-07-12T22:00:00.000+01:00

A later start today on account of my Swiss friend Monika arriving for a couple of days. When we were ready for the off, first thing was a trip up to Gornergrat to admire the view. This was my first time up there. At 3000 metres, you are given a 360 degree panoramic view of numerous 4000m peaks and equally impressive glaciers. Touristy bit done, we took the train back down to Riffelalp, where we set out on a combination of woodland, glacial lakes and meadows walk to Sunegga.

Not far in, just as you cross the Gornegrat railway, we spotted some Marmots, and managed a pretty decent shot of one of them (pictured right).

Usually the Matterhorn can be seen in some of the lakes in the area, but on this occasion, the cloud cover was too great, although it was a sunny day.

By the time we reached the last lake, Leisee, the weather had darkened, but Monika was still able to take a quick dip. Walk finished, we took the cog railway from Sunegga down to Zermatt.

#129 - Taschalp to Sunegga

2011-07-11T18:44:00.000+01:00

I’ve got a room mate, an American called Thomas turned up late, just as I thought I had the dorm to myself! Oh well, never mind. About 10pm, we went in search of somewhere for Thomas to eat, and we ended up at the Brown Cow Pub, until gone midnight. A later night than I anticipated.

So to today; Yesterdays storm had cleared the air and this morning “The Horn” showed itself properly on a glorious sunny day. Finally I can reveal the view from my room (above)!

After breakfast, I caught the train to Tasch and jumped in the Taxi Bus up to Taschalp, where I would walk part of the Europeweg to Sunegga.

A pleasant stroll, not without its “hairy height” moments. I swear I’ll never get used to it! Despite my being uncomfortable occasionally, the views more than make up for it.

I took a slight detour before the hamlet of Tufteren, on the Blumenweg, where I took some snaps of the wildflowers.

I saw the route headed up and I had no idea where it went so I back tracked, to the main route, and went on into Sunegga, busy snapping the flora; Practice makes perfect.

At Sunegga, I had a short stop for coffee, and then caught the train back into Zermatt.

In the evening, Tom and I had been joined by two new room mates, from England, Mike and Humphrey. suffice to say, we went off to the Brown Cow pub for the evening.

Date: 11/07/11
Region: Tufteralp Ridge Path, Zermatt, Switzerland
Status: Solo
Description: Taschalp (2185m) – Tufteren (2215m) – Blumenweg – Tufteren – Sunegga (2288m) - Hot, Sunny, 4hrs.
Type of Walk: International Personal Walking – Summer Conditions

A Lazy Sunday…

2011-07-10T15:18:00.000+01:00

Maybe it is the mountain air, but I didn’t stir until about 10am. I’d missed breakfast and I was not in the mood for a strenuous hike, so I went into the town centre, ordered a cappuccino and a ham, tomato and cheese toasty, then decided on the plan for today. It was a leisurely stroll from Zermatt down to Tasch; only an hour and 45 minutes, but should I feel like it, I could tag on an extra hour to Randa.

I didn’t go with the extra section, the route into Tasch is ok, and suitable for a day when the weather means there is nothing to see in the mountains. You follow the Bahnweg, at first the scenery is blighted by the construction taking place on the outskirts, and then the quarries most likely the result of the need for building materials to feed the urban sprawl. Eventually, the scenery gets better. You wander through some picturesque woodland and the valley takes on a more tranquil feel.

A few times, it threatened to rain, but there was no need for waterproofs just yet. Before too long, I had arrived in Tasch by about 2pm. I had another coffee, then jumped on the train back to Zermatt. When I got back, the heavens opened, and thunder was in the air. There was only one thing for it, retreat to the Brown Cow Pub to spend the afternoon with a couple of beers and a good book.

As I sit here in my dorm, looking out in the direction of the hidden Matterhorn, its ominously grey and the thunder has returned. This looks like it is in for the rest of the day. Tomorrow looks more promising so I’ll venture higher then!

Arrived in….

2011-07-09T15:45:00.000+01:00

…Zermatt today; its an unashamedly touristy town, and who can blame it when it is nestled below the most recognisable mountain on the planet; The Matterhorn. Staying at the YHA, the rooms are afforded a magnificent view of the 4478m peak.

Up at sparrows fart to get a 6.45am flight from Heathrow, I was soon at Geneva Airport, and within half an hour of landing I was on a train to Zermatt. It was early afternoon when I finally arrived at the youth hostel. With an hour and a half to kill before reception opened, it seemed the perfect opportunity to nip into town and do some people watching, accompanied by a couple of beers.

It’s been trying to rain, a pathetic attempt but its overcast. Forecast for the end of next week looks decidedly dodgy too. I only hope I get to see the main attraction which sits outside my dorm window. Seven nights here, it can’t all be bad.

Ready for Switzerland

2011-07-08T18:56:00.001+01:00

Bags are now packed and I have checked in online; all that is left is to sit back, chill and sleep before my very early morning flight from Heathrow.

British Airways tried to tempt me to upgrade with the offer of a glass of that poncy, pretentious, piss poor fizzy pop they call champagne at 6.45am, but my head is not for turning, even if it is only an extra £59! Honestly, what is the point of Business and First class on a short haul flight? Anyone who forks out the extra cash is both sad and a tiny bit up themselves!

But enough of berating the rich and the stupid, onto my plans for this fortnight.

This time tomorrow I will be relaxing in the Swiss town of Zermatt with a beer. My first week is spent here, my base for some walking in the region and hopefully a trek up to Hornli Hut at the foot of the Matterhorn. At some point, an old friend, Monika, will join me for a couple of days.

Then, on the Saturday, it is off to the Montreux Jazz Festival to see Deep Purple, a band that it has taken me all of 33 years to finally witness live! Quite honestly, Montreux is the mother of all places to do this given the connection with the song “Smoke on the Water”.

Then it is off to visit my friend Madeleine, in Fiesch. Amongst some walking in the Valais region, I will fit in a two day guided hike along the magnificent Aletsch Glacier. This will be my first time on the ice, and an introduction to walking with crampons. I just hope the tour has enough numbers to go ahead, I’ll know more next week.

So, extremely excited about this fortnight! Armed with my little netbook, and with a good wi-fi connection in the hostel, I’ll be updating the blog and posting photos as often as I can!

#128 - Rowtor Wild Camp

2011-06-26T23:00:00.164+01:00

I had spent a lazy day waiting for Marcus, Nick and Steve to arrive. As time ticked on, the plans changed from a walk out of Postbridge, to eventually meeting at Belstone. We got going about 3pm, the order of the weekend was to just wander the north moor, wild camping for 2 nights. I was hoping we could get to Watern Tor for the last night, but circumstances dictated we did a different route, and just as well we did because it was a real privilege!

We headed down to Cullever Steps, and up into the high moor, ticking off both Rowtor and West Mill Tor. Early on, Steve was labouring. His first time with a full pack and his pace was naturally slow.

For Yes Tor, I took Steve via the rocky military track, while Marcus and Nick took the steeper inclined path straight for the summit. When we reached the top, the worsening weather hampered any hopes we had of camping on the roof of Devon. Instead, we descended back down towards West Mill Tor. We decided a half decent spot about a 100 metres from the Red-a-ven Brook, but it really was slim pickings and the rain was getting heavier.

After some wrestling with our tents, we sheltered. The rain and wind was in for the night, though, and we rarely ventured out before the morning. My little Vango F10 Helium 200 struggled. In fairness it had been pitched side on to the wind, such was the terrain we were on, but it made for an extremely claustrophobic night, with one side pushed in. Despite this, it stood firm, and I didn't get wet.

I had to answer the call of nature about 4.45am, and, although it was light out and the rain had abated, we were in some clag.

Today, we started late, once breakfasts had been cooked, and camp had been broken. In the clag, we took the military track back up onto the High Willhays ridge. Even before we had reached it, I realised we were never going to reach Watern Tors at this pace and with a late start. Another change of plan, along to High Willhays, then drop down to Fordsland Ledge, and Black Tor, then back towards Rowtor to camp, if the weather was kind. Sunshine was promised later in the day, but in this thick mist, it seemed a million miles away.

The well trodden path to Fordsland Ledge was not too tricky to follow, but onwards from there to Black Tor, it was another thing. I took the bearing, but walking direct to the granite outcrop is not straightforward or even possible thanks to some clitter. I have walked this route many times, though, and took instead to reading the contours and steering away from the steep drop to the left. We passed a firing range post, so with that and the contours, I could estimate how far to go. It's always a reassuring sight to see the large black shadow of your intended destination appear from the grey.

We stopped at Black Tor for about half an hour for a brew. Whilst we were there, the clouds began to part, and we were finally treated to something to see; the view of Black-a-Tor Copse and the West Okement valley. Just as well because for their first visit to this area, I think Nick and Steve were unimpressed!

From here the day changed. Quickly, the waterproofs were off and we were basking in some good sunshine. We were all in better spirits now because the opportunity to camp higher with good views had increased. On we went, crossing Red-a-ven Brook along a track that took us back towards Row Tor. We turned off here and climbed up to the tor, where we made our next camp.

The evening was brilliant! We played around on the rocks, enjoyed the stunning light as the night fell; life was pretty good!

I awoke about 5am, I had missed the sunrise but the light was still good. Venturing out, I saw the cloud inversion, and felt I just had to wake Marcus who had only the day before mentioned he had never seen one. I'm glad he appreciated me waking him so early, and before long we were all up and about.

Initial excitement, over, we all retired back to our tents, but I didn't sleep and before long was up and packed by 9am. The others stirred about nine and a lazy morning was spent cooking breakfast, packing up and enjoying the great weather before the short hour walk back to Belstone.

We finally arrived back in Belstone about 1.15pm after a short stop to cool down at Cullever Steps. We celebrated the end of a great weekend with a pint of cider in the Tors Pub!

Date: 24/06/11 to 26/06/11
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Lead
Description: Belstone - Cullever Steps - Rowtor - West Mill Tor - Yes Tor - Red-a-ven Brook (wild camp 1) - High Willhays - Fordsland Ledge - Black Tor - Okehampton Common - Black Down - Rowtor (wild camp 2) - Cullever Steps - Belstone - Rain and strong winds, mist, sunshine, 20km, 3 days
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#127 - Pen y Bryn and Carn Pica

2011-06-18T23:00:00.010+01:00

There were some snippets of pleasure; looking across to Fan y Big, Cribyn and Pen y Fan in a brief window of sunshine.

Today was one of those when you stop, five hours into the six, and you say to yourself; "What the bloody hell am I doing this for?" With the unrelenting rain continually chipping away at your resolve, this was definitely a day for visiting a museum, or a tea shop, or whatever it is that normal people do!

On paper, this looked a fairly straightforward walk; some nice height gain and a respectable distance to keep me ticking over for the trip to Switzerland in July. In reality, the weather and the terrain lengthened it by an hour and a half longer than I expected.

The ascent of Pen y Bryn was head long into the wind and rain, and tough going. How I envied the multitude who were going in the opposite direction, their morning ramble near completion.

Reaching my turn off point, at the end of Rhiw Bwlch y Ddwyallt, I had hoped to grab a bite to eat, but I had committed a schoolboy error and only brought food to cook, and the weather wasn't going to let that happen! I had to content myself with a few jaffa cakes to restore my energy. I carried on, optimistic I'd find shelter lower down. Crossing the boggy Waun Rydd, I reached the impressive cairn at Carn Pica at a stage when the rain was heaviest. A saturated muddy path now descends steeply, dropping a 150 metres in half a kilometre, and I was uneasy using it, opting to take to the slightly stabler heather banks by its side. By Twyn Du, I had a short respite from the down, but soon came a slippery grass track through the mountains' skirt of ferns.

Eventually, I reached Aber Village, where I turned north to make my way back to Pencelli. Honestly, if a bus had come by, I would have jumped on it! Still, I had not been able to set up the stove and have a break. I decided I just had to get it done. Turning off the road, I started to climb again on a route known as the Usk Valley Walk, at first through a field of knee length grass, with no discernable path.

Still the rain persisted, and each stile I had to negotiate seemed higher, and more slippery. When I reached a road just above Cui Farm, I stopped at a stile, and sat down for the first time in five hours, and attempted to summon up the energy to complete. This was when I questioned the reasoning behind what I was doing. To be sat on that step, on the edge of the road, rain pouring down seemed such a sad situation to be in on such a miserable day.

Eventually, I picked myself up, and carried on up. With the hundred metre climb up from the village finally complete, the path becomes a red dirt track that starts to descend. From this point I was teased with a view of the campsite below me with my orange quasar ultralite tent like a beacon guiding me home. Unfortunately, there were still some other obstacles to contend with.

Turning off the Usk Valley Walk, I headed straight down a track that is clearly marked as a byway free to all, but at the end of it three gates had deliberately been locked. I wondered if the access had now been removed but, only a matter of thirty yards from the road, I could see a footpath sign pointing straight back up the track! My rights of way assured, and not wanting to lenghten my walk by another half hour, when I was five minutes away from a hot meal and shower, I climbed the gates and marched out to the road and the campsite. What a day!

Date: 18/06/11
Region: Brecon Beacons National Park
Status: Solo
Description: Pencelli - Pen y Bryn - Bwlch Main - Waun Rydd - Carn Pica - Twyn Du - Aber - Usk Valley Walk - Pencelli - Heavy rain, some sunshine, 17km, 6 hours
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

Promising Signs

2011-06-14T22:16:00.001+01:00

After a nightmare weekend where the cortisone kicked in big time, leaving me incapacitated for 3 days, the pain has subsided and I am raring to get back out onto the hill. Quietly optimistic about the outcome of the treatment to my shoulder, the jab could well have worked, although I have to give it a few weeks to settle.

This weekend, I'm packing the quasar and heading to Pencelli Castle campsite in the Brecon Beacons National Park for a 16.5km walk. I'm conscious that Switzerland is a few weeks away and I need to get some serious uphill bits in, so add an estimated 840 metre ascent to the distance this weekend and it is a start.

Also, it's not escaped my notice that it is the Star Inn in Talybont Beer Festival this weekend. www.starinntalybont.co.uk for more info.

With a 3 day Dartmoor wildcamping weekend pencilled in for next weekend, I'll be working the leg muscles well before I hit the alps!

A possible SLAP lesion and a cortisone injection

2011-06-10T08:00:00.015+01:00

Yesterday, I endured a long day travelling by coach from London to Exeter and back to see an orthopaedic specialist about a shoulder complaint that has gone on for far too long. I believe it was a significant factor in the Overland Track aborted attempt. Whilst it does not stop me from carrying an 18kg rucksack, I am constantly compensating for the injury in many other daily activities, and it hampers my ability to train properly. For me, the OT was the final straw; after appointments with an Osteopath before the trip failed to ease the problem, it was time to seek other advice.

The consultant, Professor Timothy Bunker, is supposed to be the best in the country for shoulder injuries, so I was confident this problem would be diagnosed once and for all. Whereas the appointment did not solve the mystery, an ultrasound did allay any fears I may have had about how serious it could be. No frozen shoulder, no calcific tendonitis, no cuff tear, but the consultation did give an indication as to what the problem might be; a SLAP Lesion.

Suffice to say, I've had to look up what a SLAP is, as well as the ailments it wasn't; an article at http://www.shoulderdoc.co.uk/article.asp?section=15 seems to explain it well.

I was given a cortisone injection to see if it settles the problem down and it was decided we would give it a month to see if it worked. If the shoulder was still no better in four weeks, then the next step would be exploratory surgery under a general anaesthetic. If it was a tear, as suspected, he would repair it straightaway.

Here's hoping the cortisone does the trick, although I think surgery will eventually be the path, which could take some months given NHS waiting lists. Whatever the outcome, I am happy to know it isn't anything sinister, and I have put up with the pain for the best part of two years now, so I can put up with it for a little longer.

Australia - a travel journal

2011-06-05T13:33:00.006+01:00

Exactly 11 years today, I returned back to the UK from an amazing 3 month trip to Australia.

On 1st January 2000, I had taken voluntary redundancy and had become unemployed for the first time in 20 years. My time working for the London Borough of Hillingdon was at a welcome end! On the 5th February 2000, I got onto a British Airways flight to Hong Kong, for an 8 day stopover, before finally travelling on to Australia for a further 3 months.

A couple of weeks ago, quite by chance, I came across my online travel journal. I was shocked, but pleasantly surprised to see it was still online, albeit lost in the bowels of the fortune city website. I had lost the original html pages so it was a trip down memory lane.

So why the online journal? Well, it seemed like a good idea to keep family and friends updated on what I was doing, through a web page. Rather than send a long email or a boring postcard to everybody, they could see what I had been up to, and I also had the opportunity to add a few pics at some point on the trip! Back then, it was the equivalent of a blog but much more time consuming to update. However, with a long trip, there are plenty of opportunities to spend the time and effort.

I quickly decided to add the entries to this blog and I have rescanned the faded photographs, converting them to black and white to attempt to compensate for their jaded appearance.

Personally, I enjoyed re-reading the entries and reminiscing, and it was a labour of love. I had only realised when I had finished, and was writing this introduction that it was the 11th anniversary of my return.

Finally, it is likely only of interest or of significance to me, but if you want to read the journal, go here for day one of Hong Kong.

#126 - Cosdon from South Zeal

2011-05-29T21:03:00.170+01:00

Not going to take any credit for the route of this walk, it must go firmly with a new book I picked up this weekend; "Walk! Dartmoor". A first for me to explore this side of the mighty "bear back" that is Cosdon Hill. For a copy of the book and other areas in the series, go to the Discovery Walking Guides Website.

So to today's foray; a late start due to a quick trip into Exeter to purchase a new jacket, and my first Paramo! Keen to try it out in anger, I hot footed it back to the moor to make the most of the inclement weather. Typical isn't it? the one occasion when you want the heavens to open, you find yourself greeted with sunshine. I was no more than 800 yards out of the car park at South Zeal when I had to remove the jacket, and even though I wore it later, it wasn't really needed.

This was my first real view of the countryside on the east of Cosdon Hill; when you are on the summit, the dome is expansive and you fail to see its base. What I was now enjoying were some tree shaded ancient lanes, a welcome respite from the sun as you ascended steadily to the open moor, replaced by a patch work of steep fields bordered by impressive granite walls.

An hour into the walk, I had reached the open moor and took a bearing for the Cosdon Stone Row, or "The Cemetery" as it is also known. It is a well preserved bronze age triple row with a double cist (burial chamber) at one end. Worth the climb alone!

From there, it was a matter of continuing in a southerly direction along an obvious old peat cutters track, a deep scar that skirts Cosdon Hill, gently climbing to a boggy area known as Raybarrow Pool. As I looked south, I was amazed to see the massive granite domes of Hay Tor far away in the distance, a far cry from the mist and rain I had been expecting this afternoon.

Today, the boggy area was a minor irritation, due to the lack of rainfall over the month, but I could see it would be impenetrable on another day. Once past the pool, the track contours around Little Hound Tor before you are met with the next Bronze Age treat, the White Moor Stone Circle.

I was now on familiar terrain, this now being a part of the Dartmoor Perambulation. Here you can look across to some of the most impressive of the tors on the north moor, Watern Tor, Steeperton Tor, Oke Tor and further in the distance, Yes Tor, easily seen despite some low mist.

The wide ridge brought a promising nip in the air and some advancing cloud had me reaching for my new jacket with excited anticipation. I marched on to Cosdon Beacon confidently, but despite the promise, the rain never came. Passed the trig point and down the northern side, the wind speed dropped and the jacket went away again for another day. So, instead I had to content myself with some wonderful views of North Devon for the duration of the descent.

Eventually, the open moor ends, and the final stretch back to South Zeal found me in another ancient lane full of young foliage and blossoming wildflowers, and a joy to discover.

Date: 29/05/11
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Solo
Description: South Zeal – Ramsey Hill – Nine Stones – Cosdon Stone Row – Raybarrow Pool – White Moor Stone Circle – Little Hound Tor – Cosdon Hill – Old Drove Road – South Zeal – Sunny Spells, breezy, 12km, 4hrs
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#125 - Okement Hill

2011-05-28T21:02:00.092+01:00

Awoke early but in no mood to stir from my tent. As suspected yesterday, I had definitely made an error of judgement in thinking that summer had arrived and the one season sleeping bag would suffice, and it made for an uncomfortable night. Outside, the clag had descended on Princetown, but rather than bemoan the lack of a view, I took it positively, and saw it as an opportunity to practice some navigation.

After breakfast in the Fox Tor Cafe, I packed up the tent and headed for the north moor. Part of the remit today was to scout for some suitable wild camping spots for a weekend in June with Marcus and a couple of his mates. As it turned out, nothing jumped out at me, maybe I was being too fussy searching for that idyllic sheltered flat grassy area nestled by a babbling brook and perched high at the base of a towering granite tor whilst facing an eastern sunrise!

Belstone seems a secure place to park for a lengthy stay. Five minutes through the pretty village and you have reached a gate to the open moor. Almost immediately, you are climbing to the ridge of Belstone Common, with it's stunning vistas of both the Taw and East Okement Valleys either side. Well, on a clear day, that would certainly be the case; today, visibility was low and rain hampered my progress.

I stopped at Oke Tor for a brew. the ground would have been suitable for a tent had it not been for the sheep and cow shit everywhere. Obviously this was a favourite shelter for the livestock.

Crossing Steeperton Brook, ascended south on an obvious track that headed for Hangingstone Hill. Before then, I turned right descending to a ford where I recrossed the brook to climb up Okement Hill.

The last time I was on Okement Hill, I was curious about the sealed track, and wondered if it was tarmac all the way. It would be an ideal place to get to if you were short on time but wanted to get out into the most remote areas of the moor. I decided to follow it back through the valley to East Okement Farm. Despite some serious pot holes, the military road appeared navigable for a standard car, up until it forded the river. Then it would have needed something a little larger. Still, I've seen minibuses up on Okement Hill so it is possible to get there, but I'll not risk it with the Ford Fiesta!

From the farm, I crossed the river and took the track passed the ford at Cullever Steps, an uncomplicated route all the way into Belstone and a change of clothes.

Date: 28/05/11
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Solo
Description: Belstone – Oke Tor – Knack Mine – Okement Hill – East Okement Valley – Cullever Steps – Nine Stones Circle - Belstone – Rain, Wind, 17.5km, 5hrs
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#124 - Down Tor

2011-05-27T21:00:00.119+01:00

Good to be back on the moor and pleasantly surprised to see the sun out once again! Getting up at 5am for the long drive down to the South-West had paid off, and I had an extra days walking. Fully kitted out for a night out should it take my fancy, I was off on to the South Moor before midday.

Although it was bright, it was noticeably colder than London, and I was immediately regretting my decision to only bring my one season sleeping bag.

Made my way over familiar waypoints such as Hart and Cramber Tors, south over the Devonport Leat and passed Crazywell Cross, before crossing to Down Tor. This had potential for a wildcamp spot, water was available before the climb at Newlycombe Lake, although not very close and there seemed to be some lawned patches that might take a tent peg. I would check out the legality of the area when I got home.

I descended west through low ferns and a scattering of blue bells, to the car park near Burrator Reservoir. Just before the car park, took a sharp left on a byway that ran south-east along the edge of the Middleworth Plantation to Deancombe. Then south across Narrator Brook and up and out onto the moor once again. I continued until I met the cycle track and bridleway that ran all the way back to Princetown, via Eylesbarrow Tin Mine, which I took back.

On my way, I thought to revisit the scene of my night navigation cock up way back on my WGL assessment. I found the small cist (Ref: SX 59234 67484) that had proved elusive without a problem, but significantly, my new map of Dartmoor had a path marked that my older one did not. Had the path been marked, I would have followed it to an obvious crossing of the river, instead of trying to over complicate things by taking a bearing from the dubious corner of a disappearing enclosure wall.

Time was marching on. I stopped at the Devonport Leat near Nun's Cross Farm, where it reappears from a tunnel, and replenished my water supply. I then cooked up some cous cous with chopped sausage, and finsihed it with a brew whilst enjoying the last rays of sunshine.

I had decided, by now, that I wouldn't be wild camping. Instead, I would check into the campsite at the Plume of Feathers pub. The thought of a couple of pints of Jail Ale was too good to resist!

Date: 27/05/11
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Solo
Description: Princetown – Hart Tor – Cramber Tor - Crazywell Cross – Down Tor – Deancombe – Eylesbarrow – Nun’s Cross – Princetown – Sunny, 18km, 7hrs
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

The Mountain

2011-05-25T09:15:00.000+01:00

Had to share this stunning video! It quite simply makes you want to get out on the hill!

The Mountain from TSO Photography on Vimeo.

The Overland Track 2011 in Aid of Epilepsy Action

2011-04-21T08:02:00.010+01:00

Sometimes things don't go as planned. This was one of those occasions.
I'm now sitting here back in Sydney, after a disappointing week in Tasmania that resulted in NO Overland Track trip.

Unfortunately, the flight over was not kind to me. I awoke ten hours into my final leg, to find my back had seized up. For those that have not had back pain, it is difficult to comprehend, but it is not just your back that suffers. For days afterwards I was experiencing pain in my legs and arms which is particularly worrying after a long haul flight. Sleep was also an issue, affected not only by the pain, but the time difference as well. Add to that the guilt and anxiety I was feeling for potentially ruining Paul and Maria's trip, I was experiencing the odd panic attack as well!

When we arrived in Launceston, I took myself to a doctor. He went some way to ease my fears, and the decision was taken to reschedule the walk by a couple of days. Maria and Paul were patient; but time ran out and I had to accept I would not be fit enough to complete the walk. Foiled for the second time!

So, instead, we spent a week in Tassie, travelling around. A few days later I was well enough to try a gentle bushwalk on the Freycinet Peninsula and Wineglass Bay.

Finally, we made it to Cradle Mountain, where we spent a night and enjoyed two walks in the region. Not what was planned, but that can't be helped.

I'd like to thank all those that sponsored us, sorry that the outcome wasn't more of a happy one, but please be reassured that your money has gone to a very worthy cause.

Wineglass Bay, Freycinet Peninsula

The OT: A reminder of the challenge

2011-04-06T20:05:00.005+01:00

Ah.. it's a great feeling to manage to get everything into the rucksack, and know that all that needs to be done now is book the taxi for the airport!

Of course, there is a small matter of the walk to tackle, but I have a sense of relief to finally be getting to the end of the preparation. Ever since Nepal in November 2009, over 16 months ago, I've been planning to return to Australia. Now I'll set foot on the boardwalk of the Overland Track once again, in a matter of days!

So, as I wait patiently for the time to head for the airport, a reminder of the challenge;

About the Challenge

Starting on 14th April 2011, Maria Oinn, Paul Worthington and I will be walking the Overland Track, Tasmania, in aid of Epilepsy Action.

The Overland Track, from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair, is a true wilderness walk which travels through spectacular dolerite mountains, near beautiful waterfalls, through a variety of fascinating ecosystems and close to Tasmania's highest mountain, Mount Ossa, before finishing at Australia's deepest lake, Lake St Clair.

The route is 65km plus additional clicks for side trips like the summits of Cradle Mountain or Mount Ossa. It's rugged mountain peaks and alpine moorlands offer some of the finest scenery in Australia. The walk requires you to carry your own provisions, and is not an undertaking that should be taken lightly.

Why Epilepsy Action?

I was a sufferer of Epileptic seizures for over 10 years, before surgery in 1994, I am fully aware of the tremendous work Epilepsy Action does, and the organisation were a great comfort to both myself and my family. So, it gives us great pleasure to raise money by walking the Overland Track, Tasmania.

Donating through JustGiving is simple, fast and totally secure. Your details are safe with JustGiving – they’ll never sell them on or send unwanted emails. Once you donate, they’ll send your money directly to the charity and make sure Gift Aid is reclaimed on every eligible donation by a UK taxpayer. So it’s the most efficient way to donate - we raise more, whilst saving time and cutting costs for the charity.

So please dig deep, go to www.justgiving.com/overlandtrack2011 and donate now.

Thanks
Paul B, Paul W and Maria

Malvern Hills

2011-03-27T22:58:00.003+01:00

Our final weekend away before we head to Australia and the Overland Track and I chose the Malvern Hills for its undulating ridgeline, perfect for some multiple ascents and descents.

A misty morning, we started to the north in West Malvern, climbing up into the clouds to the Worcestershire Beacon, the heighest point in the county at 425 metres. Already at the first peak of the walk, I could feel it was to be a slog, a nagging hangover being a contributing factor. With no views of either Herefordshire or Worcestershire, we trudged on, following the ancient ditch that runs the length of the wide ridge.

When we stopped for lunch and I took off my rucksack, the effects of the wine the night before really took hold and the walk took on more of a psychological challenge than a physical one. I was keen to get it done and dusted now. By the time we had scaled a couple of more hills, and descended towards the tea shop where the A449 passes through a gap in the hills, the next obstacle loomed ominously in front of us; British Camp and the Herefordshire Beacon.

Neither Maria or Paul were particularly disappointed when I selfishly suggested we avoid the long staircase, skirt round the hill and continue the journey back to our bunkhouse on more level terrain. It's not like there would have been much to see up there with the cloud so low anyway! So that was the unanimous decision.

A tough day in all, totally self inflicted on my part and completely deserved but it was still fun; The Malverns are a wonderful playground.

On Sunday, we took a gentle stroll around the countryside near Callows End and Medresfield, one that ended being a longer walk than anticipated, as we were unfortunately unable to gain access to cross what turned out to be a very private estate.

So that's it, out final weekend and next time we all meet up it will probably be in Sydney! Bring it on!!

It's not too late to Donate to Epilepsy Action

Please dig deep, go to http://www.justgiving.com/OverlandTrack2011, and donate now.

#123 - Princetown to Sheeps Tor

2011-03-05T23:00:00.003Z

Princetown was the busiest I have seen it! I arrived later than usual, around 11:30am, which would probably explain it, but everywhere I tried to park, I was met with rows of school minibuses. Even the Fox Tor Cafe was rammed full, and eventually I asked the landlady of the Plume of Feathers pub.

Sheeps Tor

So to todays walk, planned to be a short walk to Sheeps Tor, and a spot of wild camping overlooking the Burrator Resevoir. Best laid plans do not always pan out. It took me two and a half hours to drag my 18kg pack up to the tor, only to find I had left my phone back in the car! Aware of the fact I was on my own, like a responsible person walking on the moors, I had left my route and promised to "check in" later, with my mum, so I had visions of Mountain Rescue being needlessly called out if she didn't hear from me. One thing for it, I picked up my pack and made my way back, but by a different route. I'll definitely keep the tor in mind for next time, apart from a lack of water (which can be obtained before the final climb), it looked a pleasant spot.

I took the track through the Norsworthy Plantation, and Leather Tor Bridge. I was shocked by the decimation of the forest, a victim of the battle with Sudden Oak Death. Not sure why it has been given that name when the organism, Phytophthora ramorum, is ravaging the Japanese Larch population, but the Forestry Commission's only option is to fell vast areas. A sad site, and stark contrast to the forest my nephews and I walked through back in December 2009.

Out of the plantation, I followed the River Meavy, slowly inching up the hill to the Devonport Leat. Crossing it on Raddick Hill, I made my way to Hart Tor, and a path back to Princetown. When I eventually got back to the car, I can honestly say I was knackered!

Date: 05/03/11
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Solo
Description: Princetown – South Hessary Tor – Devonport Leat – Crazywell Pool – Norsworthy Bridge – Sheeps Tor – Leather Tor Bridge – Raddick Hill – Hart Tor – Princetown – Cold, Sunny, 15.5km, 5hrs
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

Ridgeway and Wittenham Clumps

2011-02-27T23:00:00.043Z

A weekend in Oxfordshire for two Overland Track preparation walks. The idea was to introduce Paul and Maria to walking with a 15kg plus pack on. We stayed at Court Hill Centre, on the Ridgeway just above Wantage.

Saturday was a 9.5 mile walk along The Ridgeway National Trail, from Ashbury to our accommodation. It was a muddy affair, something we should get used to on the Overland Track. The route is a wide expanse, you get the feeling this section is an neolithic byway, as opposed to the second half of the trail, that passes through the Chilterns, which is frankly, made up. There are neolithic barrows, notably Waylands Smithy, and hill forts; Uffington and Segsbury along this section, and, should you want to, there is a little side trip to the ancient chalk carving of the Uffington White Horse.

Sunday, we drove to Dorchester, on the River Thames. This was a short 5 mile circular, along the river to Shillingford, then back via two odd looking hills known as Wittenham Clumps. These were a little difficult in the rain and mud.

Weekend over, no casualties, everyone has an idea of the weight they are expected to carry, so all in all, pretty successful! Now to the Malverns at the end of the month, for some terrain that is a little more challenging!

Hangars Way pt 2

2011-02-19T21:00:00.061Z

As part of our training regime, it was back to Hampshire and the Hangars Way, this time to walk the remaining 15 miles. Fortunately, by the time we reached the start at Queen Elizabeth Park, the rain had abated, and we were treated to a dry, but very muddy walk.

I was impressed by this trail, it would make for a pleasant 21 mile walk in the months where daylight was longer.

The highlight had to be a chance encounter with a very shortsighted badger. We stood still, at the top of a lane, as it trotted up towards us, getting to within twenty feet before stopping and sniffing the air. Surprisingly, he wasn't spooked by our presence; he thought about carrying on for a minute, before heading off into the bushes. For me, this was a first and an amazing moment! I've sat next to fairy penguins sleeping in a cave, I've been pestered by kangaroos and possums, whilst camping in Australia, I've even held both a crocodile and a koala (seperately, of course!), and played with wolf cubs, yet this was just as special!

Please donate to Epilepsy Action

Please dig deep, go to http://www.justgiving.com/OverlandTrack2011, and donate now.

#122 - Leather Tor

2011-02-12T21:00:00.054Z

As much as I enjoy company on walks, sometimes you just have to get out and walk on your own. This weekend was a particularly good one. I hadn't been on the moors since last September, and I was missing it. As soon as I headed off from Princetown, and the mist started to lift, I could see this was going to be a good day.

I had no specific route in mind, I was just going to navigate from point to point, see what took my fancy and make it up as I went along. I would look at the map and find something of interest to me; a stone row, a cyst, a cairn, a boundary, a tor I hadn't visited - and just had some fun exploring.

So the day was spent using as many navigation skills as I could; handrailing, aiming off, timing, practicing walking on a bearing, plus a little bit of scrambling up Leather Tor and Sharpitor.

Date: 12/02/11
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Solo
Description: Princetown – Black Tor – Sharpitor – Leather Tor – Devonport Leat – River Meavy – Crazywell Pool – Cramber Tor – Princetown – Sunny – 14.5km, 5.5hrs
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

Dartmoor - Two Great Videos

2011-02-10T20:15:00.001Z

Heading down to Dartmoor this weekend, first trip down since September last year, and suitably stirred by the following two films; The Big Sky and Winter Light.

The Big Sky

Winter Light

South Bucks Way - A lesson

2011-02-05T23:00:00.001Z

Why I felt the need to walk the 42 kilometres (26 miles) from Uxbridge to Wendover via the South Bucks Way again, I will never know! It's not even a particularly enthralling or beautiful route in the Chilterns, yet, there I was, at 7:20am, shutting my front door and venturing out into the miserable damp twilight just before sunrise.

Off I went, keeping a pace, which, looking back, was too ambitious. After three hours, I realised I was in danger of reaching Amersham an hour ahead of my schedule, designed to make the day a pleasurable one. I had based my timings on last year, when I did it with Jim and Diane, but then I had a lighter pack, then it seemed a walk in the park.

By about eleven, my lower limbs were telling me I had obviously gone off too fast in relation to my fitness, and the feet were beginning to feel the consequences! My pace slowed dramatically.

I took a lunch break a couple of kilometres out of Amersham, a tasty 800kcal Expedition Foods freeze dried meal of Spaghetti Bolognese. I also took the opportunity to inspect my feet at the same time; Feeling the tell tale signs of hot spots on both heels, but no visible blisters, I strapped up with zinc oxide the best I could for someone with all the suppleness of a plank of wood!

In Amersham, I met up with Karen and Dominique, who were joining me for the second half. I was ten minutes late, but still, I might add, there before Karen who proudly called to say she was early when she was actually waiting outside the wrong Tesco's!

I've now decided it's probably not a great idea to walk twenty-one kilometres to join people for a walk of a further twenty-one. My pace had slowed, my muscles were stiffening, and I was feeling every step, while they were fresh and ready to crack on.

Fourteen kilometres later, I noticed on the map that there was an unexpected, but nonetheless welcome, escape route. We stopped just outside Great Missenden, and I took another look at my feet. The blisters on my heels had formed and were quite impressive, if i do say so myself! If they were popped and dressed, I could have continued, but I didn't really want to subject Karen or Dom to the task of helping out. Also, quite honestly, what was the point of doing further damage to my feet when there was a bigger goal in mind and a train station five minutes into town?

All in all, a timely remnder that I need to pace myself more efficiently, take regular breaks, and use my walking poles more often on long distances. Despite a good couple of years without any serious blisters, the day was a notice that I'm not immune to them, and that I hadn't cracked the secret to never experiencing them. As I'm writing this, I realise that my last really painful encounter to stop me in my tracks was on the Devon Coast to Coast back in August 2008, and the reasons they surfaced were exactly the same!

Finally, there is also the fact that I am not as fit as I should be, and a lot of work is still to be done.

Hangars Way pt 1

2011-01-29T21:28:00.008Z

A brief little 6 miler to start reacquainting myself with the pleasure of up to 15kg of weight on my back. Maria and I parked in the village of Selbourne, Hampshire, before walking back to her flat in Alton via the Hangars Way.

Quite happy with the amount I was carrying and a longer walk would have been more of a test, but Maria had a new nephew to see, so the walk had to be short.

The next time, though has to be a couple of days.

Please donate to Epilepsy Action

Please dig deep, go to http://www.justgiving.com/OverlandTrack2011, and donate now.

The Overland Track in Aid of Epilepsy Action

2011-01-07T18:02:00.001Z

With the arrival of a new year the countdown begins to a new adventure in aid of Epilepsy Action!

It may well be over 13 weeks to the point when we take our first step on the Overland Track, but I am only too aware those weeks will disappear soon enough! Now is the time to start training seriously and announce the event to everyone.

About the Challenge

Starting on 14th April 2011, Maria Oinn, Paul Buck and Paul Worthington will be walking the Overland Track, Tasmania, in aid of Epilepsy Action.

The Overland Track, from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair, is a true wilderness walk which travels through spectacular dolerite mountains, near beautiful waterfalls, through a variety of fascinating ecosystems and close to Tasmania's highest mountain, Mount Ossa, before finishing at Australia's deepest lake, Lake St Clair.

The route is 65km plus additional clicks for side trips like the summits of Cradle Mountain or Mount Ossa. It's rugged mountain peaks and alpine moorlands offer some of the finest scenery in Australia. The walk requires you to carry your own provisions, and is not an undertaking that should be taken lightly.

Why Epilepsy Action?

I was a sufferer of Epileptic seizures for over 10 years, before surgery in 1994, I am fully aware of the tremendous work Epilepsy Action does, and the organisation were a great comfort to both myself and my family. So, it gives us great pleasure to raise money by walking the Overland Track, Tasmania.

Donating through JustGiving is simple, fast and totally secure. Your details are safe with JustGiving – they’ll never sell them on or send unwanted emails. Once you donate, they’ll send your money directly to the charity and make sure Gift Aid is reclaimed on every eligible donation by a UK taxpayer. So it’s the most efficient way to donate - we raise more, whilst saving time and cutting costs for the charity.

So please dig deep, click on the link to the right, and donate now.

Thanks
Paul B, Paul W and Maria

The Lake District Blues

2011-01-02T22:02:00.062Z

I don't know what it is about me and the Lake District. I've not visited very often due to the distance from London, this was only my third time, but on each occasion I feel I should really be enjoying it more than I actually do!

My first visit was a rushed affair, a drive up from London on a Saturday morning, a yomp up a drizzly Red Screes, resulting in an unenjoyable lesson in disorientation in the clouds.

My second; Attacked by midges at a campsite near Stonethwaite followed by a stinking hot day attempting to climb Scafell Pike for a wildcamp experience. We ended up pitching well short of our objective, Ling Mell.

So to my third; A persistant virus had left me unfit and constantly coughing for the previous five weeks, so some strenuous hill climbing wasn't what my mind or body was craving.

Despite that, Maria, Carrie and I managed three walks; A couple of low level circulars to Sunkenkirk Stone Circle, then Grizedale Forest the next day, and on the third, an ascent of Great Gable.

Unfortunately, I was in no mood for Great Gable. By the time I had reached Sty Head at 500m, the prospect of another four hundred wasn't appealing, and I turned back while Maria and Carrie made their way to the summit.

So, none of the walks really long enough to be officially logged (although the 3rd would have been if I had stayed the distance), and once again, not an inspiring visit to this national park. Maybe next time...

Gear Test: Freeze Dried Meals

2010-12-24T13:17:00.000Z

In my search to solve the problems of cooking on the Overland Track, I've been trying some Freeze Dried meals. I purchased from two reputable companies, Be Well Expedition Foods and Expedition Foods. Let's be honest, these meals will never perfectly replicate their freshly cooked equivalent, so accept it and you will put up with them, if only for the convenience alone.

Expedition Foods

The meals sampled were Beef and Potato Hotpot, Chicken Korma with Rice, and Spaghetti Bolognese.

Energy and Weight: These meals are a hefty 800 calories per meal; perfect for replenishing lost energy on a long distance hike.
Packaging: The packaging is sturdy, but the design hampers flat packing and takes up space within the rucksack.
Directions: Simple; fill with boiling water to a designated line, stir and leave for 5-8 minutes.
Taste: All three of the meals were very tasty, rehydrated well, and I didn't suffer the problem of finding pockets of powder in the corners at the bottom of the meal. All in all, I was quite impressed!
Price: Not for people who are more concerned with their budget than the weight in the pack. For more on the range available please visit Expedition Foods

Be Well Expedtion Foods
These come with an endorsement from Sir Ranulph Fiennes, no less, so I had high hopes for these. Add to the fact, I can get a discount for being an MLTA member, I was happy with the price tag. Unfortunately, when it came to the eating, my expectations were not met.

The meals sampled were Lamb Pilaf, Spaghetti Bolognese, and Hot Cereal Start.

Energy and Weight: The calorific value of these lighter meals is substantially less, at 479 kcal (based on the Lamb Pilaf 125g pack).
Packaging: Once again, strong and unlikely to be punctured or torn, but this time they are easily flat pack and therefore more meals can be fitted into a much smaller space.
Directions: Similar directions, fill to a line on the inside of the pack, although the line was actually below the level of the meal itself so this made calculating how much water to put in very difficult.
Taste: Lamb Pilaf: had plenty of promise, a good spicy kick to it. The meal just didn't seem like it had properly rehydrated, though, and I must admit I failed to finish it because of this. It could have been that it needed a little longer than the recommended 5 minutes to stand, or it needed some more water. Spaghetti Bolognese: Jim tried this but overfilled the bag, so it wasn't a success. The Hot Cereal Start: Basically just porridge with raisins in so I could have made up my own mixture and saved a couple of quid. That said, it was a good breakfast, the fact it was in a bag saved on washing up and the calorific value was an energy boosting 500+!
Price: As I said before, I get a discount for being a MLTA member. For more on the range available please visit Be Well Expedition Foods

Video Diary

2010-12-14T20:28:00.001Z

Just felt I had to share this link to a website showing a video diary and photography of a group trekking the Overland Track.

http://multicolouredplanet.com/Grundlefly/Overland_Track

Mount Ossa Video

2010-12-13T21:57:00.000Z

I only hope our day on Mount Ossa matches this great video!

#121 - First snow of winter.

2010-11-27T23:00:00.053Z

Huzza!

With forecasts of snow and record low temperatures for November, it was a relief when Maria text me to say the campsite we were heading for was closed for the winter. I made a quick phone call to Pindale Farm, near Hope, to confirm and book us straight into the bunkhouse.

As it happened, the drive up to the Peak District was unhampered by the threatened conditions and it wasn't until the morning that we saw our first snowfall of winter.

So to the walk; hastily rerouted due to the threat of bad weather, we met up by the edge of Ladybower Reservoir, a healthy group of about 20. When all had sorted out parking, we set off in the cold conditions, up Crook Hill, crunching across a hard surface that could well tell on the feet by the end.

Despite some good hills to climb, the urge to remove a layer didn't surface all day and at exposed points, such as at Lost Lad and all along Derwent Edge, a harsh northwind stung the face.

Date: 27/11/10
Region: Peak District National Park
Status: Member
Description: Ladybower Reservoir - Crook Hill – Lockerbrook Coppice – Derwent Reservoir – Lost Lad – Back Tor – Doverstone Tor – Ashopton - Ladybower Reservoir – Snow on ground, cold - 17km, 6hrs
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

YHA Sydney Harbour

2010-11-05T13:47:00.001Z

Booked up the Sydney legs of the Overland Track trip, staying at the YHA Sydney Harbour! Looks pretty good, and I know it's in a top location, in the Rocks District.

Can't wait!

#120 - Around Tryfan

2010-10-29T19:23:00.045+01:00

My intentions of pottering around the mountains of Snowdonia National Park were scuppered from the start. The forecast from the Mountain Weather Information Service was pretty damning; "Severe gales will make for very difficult conditions on the hills. Any mobility likely to be tortuous in places. Significant wind chill."

The plan was for my mate Richard to introduce me to some scrambling, something I had always been wary of due to not being particularly enamoured with sheer drops! The gales put paid to that, though, and the ridges were off limits.

Despite the attrocious weather we did manage a walk worthy of the log book.

Date: 29/10/10
Region: Snowdonia National Park
Status: Equal
Description: Llyn Ogwen – Llyn Idwal – Cwm Bochlwyd – Bwlch Tryfan – Tryfan Bach – Llyn Ogwen – Gales, Rain, 10km, 5hrs
Type of Walk: Personal Mountain Walking

Overland Track: Books to Read

2010-10-24T11:39:00.001+01:00

A weekend at home, and time to do some plugging for a couple of e-Books related to the Overland Track lovingly put together by Frank and Sue Wall. Both books can purchased from "Our Hiking Blog".

The Overland Track
The Overland Track is an eBook designed to give you the skill and inspiration to tackle the Overland Track in Tasmania. Created by experienced multi day hikers, it is packed with tips and ideas to make bookings, preparation, planning, gear selection, packing and cooking meals easy.

The great thing is it includes a comprehensive guide on how to juggle bookings, flights, transfers and accommodation and then helps you sort out gear and food.

http://ourhikingblog.com.au/the-overland-track-ebook

Food To Go

This book is going to prove invaluable for not only the Overland Track, but any multi-day trip out into the wilderness, as I find food preparation to be, probably, the most difficult aspect of wild camping.

Food to Go is an eBook designed to give you the skill and inspiration to take great food on your next adventure. Created by experienced multi day hikers it is packed with tips and ideas to make shopping, planning, storage, packing and cooking meals easy.

The great thing is it includes menus from 14 experienced bushwalkers and backpackers from across the world. They have shared their food ideas, recipes and menu planning tips to save you time and effort.

http://ourhikingblog.com.au/food-to-go

Overland Track: ..and then there were three!

2010-10-18T18:37:00.000+01:00

Persistence has paid off and my friends Paul Worthington and Maria Oinn have booked up to join me on the Overland Track!
We'll all meet up at Sydney Kingsford Smith on a Sunday evening in April 2011 and a few days later, we will have found our way to Tasmania and the start of seven days top hiking in aid of Epilepsy Action!

Can't Wait!!!

#119 - White Edge to Baslow return

2010-10-16T22:00:00.021+01:00

A Will4Adventure Free Weekend. Assisting along a familiar route, a good turn out of 18 to head along White Edge, down into Baslow, via the Wellington Monument.

A stop for lunch in Baslow, then back along the River Derwent to Grindleford, before the sting in the tail of a two hundred metre climb through woodland, back to the car.

Date: 16/10/10
Region: Peak District National Park
Status: Assist
Description: Longhsaw Estate CP - White Edge - Baslow - Calver - Grindleford - Longshaw Estate CP - Chilly, mainly dry. 21km, 6 hours.
Type of Walk: Leading or Assisting

#118 - Fan Frynach

2010-09-25T23:00:00.055+01:00

Picture by Jo Philpotts

Woke to a beautiful morning and decided to make a change of route given we wouldn't get started until nearer 11am. Parked at the Mountain Visitor Centre, and took a leisurely stroll up to Fan Frynach. My third time up here, but the first time I was afforded a view!

Coming down, we visited a cairn to the north of the ridge, and then went "off road" down the steep, heather coated hill.

It was then we saw some old bloke come rushing up to a fence below us, waving frantically. I thought it was going to be a "Get orf my larnd!" moment, but I knew this was Open Access Land. Instead he was telling us that there was no way over the fence we had reached. He was moaning that many walkers took this direction down and he was going to contact the authorities to get a stile put in.

We bowed to his knowledge, rather than handrail the fence to its conclusion down at the bottom of the hill, and climbed precariously over the barbed wire fence, resulting in Jo taking a slip and damaging her trousers and sustaining a cut on her behind.

The guy headed off down the hill, and we eventually made our way in the same direction. I wasn't best pleased when, under a hundred metres further, we passed a stile along the fence! A valuable lesson that locals don't always know best, and if in doubt of their knowledge, stick to the original plan.

Date: 25/09/10
Region: Brecon Beacons NP
Status: Equals
Description: Visitors Centre – Pont Blaen-cwm-du – Fan Frynych – Pont Pentre-Liech – Visitors Centre – Sunny, clear skies, fresh northwind - 12.2km, 5hrs.
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#117 - Pen y Fan again!

2010-09-24T22:55:00.024+01:00

My birthday weekend getaway. Set off for Pencelli Castle Campsite before dawn, and arrived well before Jim and Diane. The walk was a familiar one, and particularly enjoyable with a gusting northwind that was a reminder that this was the first day of Autumn. The rain held off all day, and we made it to Pen y Fan in good time, albeit with a murky view through a rolling cloud. Bracing stuff, and probably my favourite walking weather!

Date: 24/09/10
Region: Brecon Beacons National Park
Status: Equal
Description: Blaen y glyn – Craig y Fan Ddu – Fan y Big – Cribyn – Pen y Fan – Graig Fan Ddu – Neuadd Res – Taff Trail – Cold northwind, strong gusts, 18km, 5hrs.
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#116 - Edale Skyline

2010-09-11T23:00:00.001+01:00

My week of walking continued with a drive up to the Peak District on Friday for a Will4Adventure Weekend. In the afternoon I arrived in Hope and met up with Will, his wife Phillipa and their baby daughter, Joceline, for a short walk, of about an hour, to Crookstone Barn, our accommodation for the weekend. The rest of the gang arrived late Friday night.

Saturday was a day of contrasts with equal measures of showers and sunshine. The walk starts high, and quickly you are skirting the edge of Kinder Scout. an hour in, we got the worst of the rain, and hefty gusts of from a headwind slowed the pace to Crowden Tower. Further on, passed the wierd sculpted limestone rocks that litter the edge of the ridge, we wandered through wisps of cloud.

A "Huzzah" on Lord's Seat - Pic by Will Legon

We stopped for lunch at Edale Head, before the long trudge across Brown Knoll, a particularly soggy and boggy section, more than I have known on previous walks. Round the knoll, and onto Rushup Edge, a boost of energy because we had turned for home, although there were still some steep climbs to negotiate before we could rest.

Mam Tor was the first ascent, then the uncomfortable walk down the slippery flag stone path to Hollins Cross. Back Tor ticked off and then Lose Hill, we could see the copse that surrounds the barn, on the other side of the valley. One more descent, down to Bagshaw Bridge and then another climb up to our home for the weekend... A fine walk!

Date: 10/09/10
Region: Peak District National Park
Status: Member
Description: Crookstone Barn - Kinder Scout - Crowden Tower - Edale Head - Brown Knoll - Rushup Edge - Mam Tor - Hollins Cross - Back Tor - Lose Hill - Townhead - Bagshaw Bridge - Crookstone Barn - Showers and sunshine, 9hrs, 26km
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#115 - The Roof of Devon

2010-09-08T21:00:00.016+01:00

All packed up, we drove to Meldon Reservoir for a visit to High Willhays, Yes Tor and Dartmoor's worst kept secret thanks to the BBC's Secret Britain programme (clip below)

Date: 08/09/10
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Equals
Description: Meldon Reservoir - Homerton Hill - Black Tor - Fordsland Ledge - High Willhays - Yes Tor - Sandy Ford - Black-a-Tor Copse - Vellake Corner - Meldon Reservoir - Showers and sunshine, 5hrs, 13km
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#114 - Runnage Farm and Grimspound Circular

2010-09-07T21:00:00.033+01:00

We decided against continuing along the forest boundary, and got a lift back to Princetown. We had breakfast at the cafe, then drove to our accommodation at Runnage Farm. So we went for a wander straight from the farm.

Following the road for a few kilometres, through Lower Blackaton and Gamble Cot, we met an old track, which had the feel of an ancient route between the settlements in the area and Widecombe, on the east side of the Hameldown ridge.

A familiar route for me, from then on. Across the ridge, down to the Bronze Age settlement of Grimspound, up onto Hookney Tor and then the Warren House Inn.

A quick couple of pints and then across the Wallabrook, into the Forestry Plantation on Soussons Down, and back to Runnage Farm. Job done!

Date: 07/09/10
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Equals
Description: Runnage Farm - Lower Blackaton - Gamble Cot - Hameldown Beacon - Broad Barrow - Grimspound - Hookney Tor - Warren House Inn - Soussons Down - Runnage Farm - Showers and sunshine, 5hrs, 15km
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#113 - Princetown to Meldon Reservoir

2010-09-06T21:00:00.108+01:00

To wake up to a weather warning knocks the optimism a bit. This was supposed to be the beginning of a three day traverse of the Dartmoor Forest boundary, incorporating a night wildcamping on the high north moors on the first, and a camping barn the following night. What it actually turned out to be, in all my days walking on Dartmoor, was the wettest!

Despite the prospect of a tough day, my mate Richard and I left the Fox Tor Cafe Bunkhouse, in Princetown, just before 8am with visibility at around 20 metres! Ticking off the first two boundary points, North Hessary and Great Mis Tors, we were making good progress along the route. The mist was replaced by steady rain, and this was to stay with us for the rest of the day, a south-westerly that kept at our backs constantly.

At Sandy Ford on the River Tavy, (or Sandy Lake, as the new OS Map calls it, probably to differentiate from Sandy Ford on the West Okement), we had to take a slightly different route to avoid the live firing in the Willsworthy Range. We skirted the perimeter, across Amicombe Hill, stopping close to some disused mine works, for a brew and to pick up my energy levels, which had dropped alarmingly in the persistant rain and tough going.

At Bleak House, we crossed the Rattlebrook and rejoined the boundary. finding Rattlebrook Head is not a simple task. It's a particularly horrible boggy area, and I suppose you could say it's all the head! We skirted round to Hunt Tor, then took a rough track passed the head towards Steng a Tor and the next point.

Descending to Sandy Ford on the West Okement was tricky. Rather than head towards Kitty Tor to pick up the safe path down, we took a short cut, and inevitably found the clitter. It took a lot longer than expected to pick our way down to cross the river.

The climb up to Fordsland Ledge, for me, was proving a challenge. My energy levels were just not being sustained, despite snacking to maintain them. By the time we had got half way up, the decision was made to take the escape route option. We were soaked. We might as well have been sitting fully clothed in a bath. A night of wildcamping would prove to be uncomfortable and, quite frankly, uneccessary.

At the ledge, we sheltered in the metal storage hut, and I rang my parents, who live nearby, to pick us up at Meldon Reservoir in an hour. All that remained was to make our way down to reservoir car park, via Black Tor. Ironically, the weather eased as we descended, and the sun made an appearance, but by then, the rain had penetrated every part and it was good to see dry clothes.

Date: 06/09/10
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Equals
Description: Princetown - Great Mis Tor - Lynch Tor - Sandy Lake - Bleak House - Hunt Tor - Sandy Ford - Fordsland Ledge - Black Tor - Meldon Reservoir - Persistent rain, poor visibility, 8hrs, 25km
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#112 - Malvern Hills

2010-08-22T17:31:00.106+01:00

On top of Herefordshire Beacon

I have wanted to visit the Malvern Hills for a couple of years, and, thanks to my friends Lynn and Paul, I got the chance to plan a walk for them this weekend.

We started from Hollybush, and it wasn't long before the inevitable rain began. The route would take us north along the base of the Malvern Hills, before climbing up on to the ridge and returning south.

The northward journey was a lot trickier than I expected. I won't lie, I am not a fan of navigating paths in woodland, and on this walk, there was a lot of it! Mindful of some shoddy navigating on a couple of recent occasions in wooded areas, I took particular care and avoided any wrong turns.

Despite being under cover, we were getting soaked; the paths were overgrown and before too long it was too late to don the waterproof over trousers. We stopped at Upper Colwall, for lunch, sheltering under a tree. Unfortunately, the persistant rain had, by now, worked its way through the canopy so it wasn't much of a respite.

Given the weather, we cut the walk short of the Worcestershire Beacon, and headed straight up the hill from our lunch stop, to the Shire Ditch. On top of the ridge, the rain stopped, and we turned south, Worcestershire below us, to our left, Herefordshire to our right.

We did have one more downpour, and a particularly bracing one given we were exposed to a strengthening wind, but it didn't last too long, and was quite exhilerating. Soon afterwards, we were sweltering in the humidity.

British Camp, an Iron Age Hill Fort

We soon reached British Camp, a massive Iron Age hill fort and the location of Herefordshire Beacon. The views were excellent, the Malvern Hills weren't disappointing!

Down off Swinyard Hill, we followed a road around to the last climb, up to Midsummer Hill and another hill fort, this one not as exposed as British Camp, hidden away amongst the woodland that surrounded it. There wasn't any breeze to cool us on this ascent, and the top was a welcome sight. Amongst the trees, we spotted the path down, and within fifteen minutes, we had returned to the car.

All in all, a great walk, with different aspects to it; woodland paths, short but steep ascents, lofty views and bags of history. I'll definitely be back to complete the entire length, hopefully with some better weather!

For more on the Malvern Hills visit http://www.malvernhills.org.uk/

Date: 21/08/10
Region: The Malvern Hills
Status: Member
Description: Hollybush - News Wood - Evendine - Pinnacle Hill - Upper Colwall - Shire Ditch - Jubilee Hill - Herefordshire Beacon - Swinyard Hill - Midsummer Hill - Hollybush - Rain, wind, 16.5km, 5.5 hours
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#111 - Fur Tor Adventure

2010-08-15T18:00:00.006+01:00

A two night foray into the heart of Dartmoor. Jim and Marcus got down to Devon early Friday afternoon. Later, we parked at the Fox and Hounds car park and headed off to Nodden Gate, where the moor begins.

Across the ford of the River Lyd, we made our way up to Brat Tor and the impressive Widgery Cross. A short break, we continued towards Sharp Tor, where we ran into a particularly nasty area of clitter and the hidden danger of vegetation covered, knee deep holes. I found the first one, and at another point when trying to escape the area, got stranded on a rock surrounded by suspicious ground! Clitter behind us, we all met up at Hare Tor for the first brew.

Campsite set up at Sandy Ford with Fur Tor in the background.

The path down from Hare Tor to the Rattlebrook is a simple one, but the ground becomes more boggy along the banks. We crossed at the same point Catherine had taken a dunking three years ago on the Perambulation, and then joined the River Tavy. We pushed on east, over, at first, a boulder strewn riverbank, and then some level grassland, before we reached Sandy Ford. On the horizon, we could see the bulk of our objective, although the most impressive granite outcrop of Fur Tor was out of sight.

Mindful of the fresh wind, we decided to set up camp in the relative cover of the valley, by the side of the Tavy.

We were promised by those serial liars in the BBC Weather Department that we were in for a clear night, and so we looked forward to a night of watching the Perseid meteor shower but, true to form, the clouds remained.

Perfecting my Bombay Potato

Instead, we had to be content with just a mug of red wine and a pretty good meal of bombay potato with chopped sausage! Apart from Marcus, that is, who has this "self sufficiency" fixation that see him make his own meals. Even the prospect of spaghetti without a sauce, which he had forgotten, failed to break his resolve!

Saturday morning wasn't a good one. After breakfast, we started to break camp, but this delayed us due to the heavens opening. We sat in Marcus's porch until we had a break, and we were finally heading up to Fur Tor by midday. We dumped our packs halfway up, at a place where we would be returning, and climbed up to the top, in a short downpour. My first time on Fur Tor, and the "Maiden of the Moor" is magnificent! It has a 360 degree panorama of the north moor. Brilliant! I'll definitely be returning on a day trip next time. Once we had retrieved our rucksacks, we headed into the valley, attempting to follow a tributary of the Amicombe Brook northwards, to the left of Great Kneeset. This is tricky; the ground is marshy, uneven, and tough work, especially when the rain wasn't abating! Jim had a serious sense of humour failure, and kept saying how much he was hating it. His boots had a leak and his feet were soaked through so I could understand it and when he lost his leg in a clitter trap, it only exacerbated his miserable mood.

We trudged on, no choice but to do so. The ground is not suitable for any sort of camping, and it would have meant a long walk out on Sunday, anyway. I have to say, though, I was enjoying the challenge walking in the rain, into the wind. After all, this is what Dartmoor is all about!

We tried to stay reasonably high out of the mire, on the lower level of Amicombe Hill, but eventually we had to head down to cross the West Okement beneath Lints Tor where the terrain looked easier.

Black Tor from our camping spot on the West Okement.

Passing the path that climbs to Fordsland Ledge and High Willhays beyond, we continued along the bank of the West Okement, the path now more visible and less of an ordeal. Through Black-a-Tor Copse, we finally reached our next campiing spot beneath the impressive Black Tor. Despite Jim wanting to walk back to the car, we set up camp, in a brief respite from the rain. As soon as the flysheet was on, another shower came, and we dived for cover. The evening faired better. Jim had a brew, got his boots off, his mood lightened and he was eventually glad we didn't decide to return to the car.

Apart from a slight bit of drizzle, typically as we were cooking dinner, the night stayed dry. For dinner, a large helping of penne with Spicy Chilli Tomato Sauce and chopped sausage.

Sunday morning was a totally different kettle of fish! A slight mist up the valley towards the higher ground, but mercifully dry for breaking camp.

We descended down the river to the weir crossing before Meldon Reservoir, and then turned left up a narrow path to an amphitheatre dominated by the high Corn Ridge. We climbed up through what I imagine is some old mine works, before hitting a visible track leading from it. This track eventually hit the more prominent disused Rattlebrook peat mine railway. The weather had brightened, the sun had broken through and the views of West Devon were good, if a little hazy. Around the large bulk of Great Nodden, we descended to Nodden Gate, and eventually the car. A top weekend! Anyone for an Olympic Breakfast at the Little Chef?

Date: 13/08/10 to 15/08/10
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Member
Description: Fox and Hounds - Brat Tor - Hare Tor - Rattlebrook Foot - Sandy Ford (1st wildcamp) - Fur Tor - Amicombe Brook - Kneeset Foot - Black-ator Copse (2nd wildcamp) - Vellake Corner - Coombe Down - Nodden Gate - Fox and Hounds - Rain, overcast, 25km.
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#110 - Stanage Edge

2010-08-08T21:33:00.004+01:00

A Will4Adventure weekend with a very familiar route up from Hathersage, onto Stanage Edge, before making our way down to the River Derwent and back into Hathersage.

Date: 08/08/10
Region: The Peak District National Park
Status: Member
Description: Hathersage - Baulk Lane - Stanage Edge - Higger Tor - Longshaw Estate - Grouse Inn - River Derwent - Hathersage - Dry, overcast, 18.8km, 6 hours.
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#109 - Dartmoor Wild Camp

2010-08-01T16:30:00.126+01:00

When I buy a new piece of kit, I just have to try it out as soon as possible! So, armed with my new Lowe Alpine TFX Outback 65:80 Rucksack, Jim and I ventured out on Saturday afternoon from Princetown. The intention was to camp down by the River Plym at Giant's Basin, but we made good progress along the cycle track and were there by 3pm.

I suggested we carry on, and head towards Black Tor via Norsworthy Bridge, which turned out to be a good option as it made the walk back to Princetown on Sunday morning only an hour.

The choice of place to wild camp wasn't the greatest, if I'm honest. Black Tor has a good view, but it is close to a road. Also, it falls within an area where camping is only allowed with the landowners permission, which would explain the herd of cows.

Soon after we had eaten a pretty poor freeze dried meal, the weather took a turn for the worst. I love the way things change so dramatically in a short space of time on Dartmoor, and we were soon heading for the refuge of the tent!

The rain began, the mist descended, and we were in for the night. As it got dark, and we switched on the lamp, the orange glow of the Quasar acted as a beacon in the low visibility for some of the cows, and there was an uneasy few moments where I was running this scenario through my head where one would stumble into us as it made its way through the mist. Thankfully, by the time the light was switched off, the activity outside died down.

Sunday morning, well aware that we had no permission to be here, but more significantly with the lure of a fry up at the Fox Tor Cafe, we were up at 6.30am, and packed on our way back to Princetown 45 minutes later.

Date: 01/08/10
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Member
Description: Princetown - Siwards Cross - River Plym - Giant's Basin - Norsworthy Bridge - Overnight camp at Black Tor - Princetown - Rain, overcast, mist, 19km.
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

Overland Track - Dates Confirmed

2010-07-20T20:00:00.004+01:00

Took the first steps towards the Overland Track by booking my flights to Australia, and my place on the track, today. Although it is four months later and a shorter stay than I originally planned, it is considerably cheaper.

It's good to have a definite date now, and something to work to. Before, there were plenty of moments where I seriously considered the expense of attempting the trek, but it has always been in the back of my mind, so better to say "sod it" and make the move towards realisation.

So now, the itinerary looks like this for April 2011;

Saturday 9th: Depart Heathrow
Sunday 10th: Arrive Sydney
Tuesday 12th: Fly from Sydney to Launceston
Thursday 14th: Overland Track - Day 1: Bus to the start, Ronny Creek to Waterfall Valley Hut (10km).
Friday 15th: Overland Track - Day 2: Waterfall Valley Hut to Windermere Hut (7.75km)
Saturday 16th: Overland Track - Day 3: Windermere Hut to New Pelion Hut (16.75km)
Sunday 17th: Overland Track - Day 4: New Pelion Hut to Kia Ora Hut (9km)
Monday 18th: Overland Track - Day 5: Kia Ora Hut to Bert Nichols Hut (10km)
Tuesday 19th: Overland Track - Day 6: Bert Nichols Hut to Narcissus Hut (9km)
Wednesday 20th: Overland Track - Day 7: Lake St. Clair Ferry and bus to Launceston.
Thursday 21st: Fly from Launceston to Sydney
Monday 25th: Depart Sydney
Tuesday 26th: Arrive Heathrow

#108 - Fiescheralp to Gletscherstube

2010-07-09T20:00:00.059+01:00

Our only day out walking with all of the gang. We eventually got everyone organised and out onto the cable car up to Fiescheralp. It was then a 45 minute walk down to Bettmeralp and a gondola ride up to Bettmergrat. Here, Richard took the majority up on the Alpine route to the Bettmerhorn summit, whilst I escorted Jo along the edge of the ridge overlooking the Aletsch Glacier, to Marjelensee. This route is a particular favourite of mine, starting high above the ice, you gradually descend to the glacier edge. As you near the wall, you start to notice the cobalt blue crevasses, and when you spot someone on, or close to the surface, you really begin to appreciate its size.

Jo and I stopped at Marjelensee, waiting for the others to catch up, and they weren't far behind.

After Jack had finally thrown himself into the glacial lake after threatening to do so all week, we all went down to the foot of the glacier's edge. The walk down can be dangerous and care should be taken. Last year, Diane and I saw someone being airlifted after a fall, and this year, we were close to a repeat when Jo stepped on the wet surface of rock that has been polished smooth by the glacier. It was only the quick actions of Richard that averted a serious accident.

The glacier wall is immense but it differed from the previous year, and looked unstable. There was fresh collapse on the edge and I was nervous when Jon put on his crampons and went up between a crevasse in the side, rather than take my advice and get onto it from a higher, safer route.

Late lunch at the Gletscherstube Hut, a particularly good version of Rosti, and then we had a shortcut through the tunnel back to the cable car.

Date: 09/07/10
Region: Aletsch Glacier, Switzerland
Status: Equals
Description: Fiescheralp – Furrihutte – Bettmeralp – Bettmergrat – Marjelensee- Fiescheralp – Sunny, Equals - 13km, 7h
Type of Walk: International Personal Walking - Summer Conditions

#107 - Fiescheralp to Riederalp via Moosfluh

2010-07-08T20:00:00.045+01:00

Whilst Richard, Jack and Jim hot footed it up the Sparrhorn, I took things a little more leisurely today, although it was still a walk worthy of the log book.

Maria had arrived only the day before, so rather than subject her to a climb to 3000m (and me to the nervy sheer drops), it seemed sensible to acclimatise with a walk along from Fiescheralp up to Moosfluh, and along the ridge to Riederfurka, and lunch.

Another stinking hot day, the climb up to Moosfluh was good exertion and a route I had not done before. The reward for this ascent is a view of the Aletsch Glacier, and one that Maria did not expect when we passed over the brow of the ridge. We then moved across the top, with the Matterhorn clearly visible in the distance, and the Sparrhorn towering above us in the foreground.

As we neared Riederfurka, the ridge drops to the hut near the Aletschwald, where we had lunch. As we looked up at the imposing Sparrhorn scanning the ridge for any sign of the others, we tucked into a great meal, where I tried Cholera for the first, and definitely not the last time!

After lunch, we descended down to the Gondola station and Riederalp.

Date: 08/07/10
Region: Moosfluh, Switzerland
Status: Equals
Description: Fiescheralp (2212m) - Furri Hutte (2172m) - Moosfluh (2333m) –Riederfurka - Riederalp – Sunny, hot, Equals, 10km, 4hrs.
Type of Walk: International Personal Walking - Summer Conditions

#106 - The Italian Job

2010-07-06T20:00:00.084+01:00

There is something exciting about walking over a mountain range into another country, so the opportunity to do so couldn't be missed!

Richard, Jack, Jim and I took up the mission to invade Italy via the Albrunpass, and we headed off to Imfeld where you can park the car. The route we took involved a fair amount of road walking for the first few miles but eventually we were on the "Birchweg" and descending to a crossing of the Binna river.

The valley is renowned for its rich mineral deposits, and the floor is littered with quartz that glitters in the intense sun along the route.

From Freichi, we climbed up into a simply stunning alpine meadow, where the Binntallhutte could be seen nestled below our objective, the Albrunpass. The wildflowers we saw there were vibrant blues, purples, pinks and yellows. Add to that the white dolomite rocks, cascading waterfalls and rich green pasture, the whole vista was quite an emotional one!

A quick bowl of coffee at the Binntalhutte, and then upwards another 150m to the Albrunpass, where you cross the border into Italy. We stayed a while, the others scrambling up on one of the hills above the pass to get a better view whilst I pottered around taking more photos of the flora in the area.

Returning, we retraced our steps to the hut for some lunch, and then along the other bank of the river, via a lake called Halsesesee. This route didn't involve any road until the last couple of kilometres and was much more interesting.

Back at Imfeld, we ducked into a hut to get a drink and ice cream. I was so dehydrated that the very large glass of cool Ice Tea was probably the best drink I have ever tasted in my 46 years! Seriously, I didn't know whether to drink it or sleep with it! ;-)

Date: 06/07/10
Region: Albrunpass, Switzerland
Status: Equals
Description: Imfeld – Freichi - Chiestafel - Binntallhutte – Albrunpass – Halsesesee – Furggmatta – Imfeld – Sunny, 17.5km, 1151m Ascent, 6h
Type of Walk: International Personal Walking - Summer Conditions

#105 - Riederalp to Fiescheralp

2010-07-05T20:00:00.059+01:00

First walk of the week; a chance to orientate everyone, and show them the wonders of the Great Aletsch Glacier.

Straight out of the gondola, the route climbs out of Riederalp and up to the Riederfurka hut, with the Amityville style Villa Cassel to the left. It was here, before we descended to the Aletschwald, that we got a good view of Sparrhorn (3021m) that Richard, Jim and Jack were keen to climb later in the week.

The Aletschwald Forest gives you a respite from the heat, with tantalising glimpses of the glacier along the path.

Once out of the trees, the path ascends to the highest point of the walk at 2235m. Here you can see both sides of the ridge, although the clouds obscured the big peaks off in the distance to the South West, such as the Matterhorn.

Steadily downhill now, passing an idyllic glacial lake called Blausee, before winding down to the much larger Bettmersee.

Lunch in Bettmeralp, and then an hour further along a broad path overlooking Fiesch, to the cable car at Fiescheralp. a good introduction to what Switzerland, and in particular, the Valais region has to offer when it comes to walking in the summer.

Date: 05/07/10
Region: Aletschwald, Switzerland
Status: Equal
Description: Reideralp – Reiderfurka – Aletschwald – Blausee – Bettmersee – Bettmeralp – Furri Hutte - Fiescheralp - Sunny – 12km, 5h
Type of Walk: International Personal Walking

#104 - Run to the Hills!

2010-06-13T20:00:00.033+01:00

I was having a very very bad week at work and never was the time so right to run to the hills!

Afternoon booked at the last minute, I jumped in the car and rushed down to the campsite at Pencelli, in the Brecon Beacons, where I was to meet up with Jon and Jo.

So to the walk; Mindful of a beer festival to go to in the afternoon, we opted for a short one, but with a decent bit of uphill. Sugar Loaf, to the north of Abergavenny, fitted the bill. Pretty much looking every bit the archetypal mountain, this hill falls 4 metres short of that privilege.

Date: 14/06/10
Region: Brecon Beacons National Park
Status: Lead
Description: Porth-y-parc – Sugar Loaf – Deri – Sunny View -Porth-y-parc.
Warm, Sunny, Clear Skies, 10.2km, 3.5hrs.
Type of Walk: Leading or Assisting

Gear Test: Jetboil Stove

2010-06-06T14:01:00.002+01:00

The Jetboil Stove was Jim's shiny new piece of kit.

Product Description
All the elements required for outdoor cooking in a single, compact unit. Fluxring® technology makes it one of the fastest and most fuel efficient boilers currently available. Weighs just 15ozs (approx. half a bag of sugar), rivalling the very lightest titanium cooksets. Insulated sleeve with webbing handle allows you to drink / eat straight from the cooker. Uses standard screw in propane gas canisters

Pros: Fast boiling, compact when stored and light.
Cons: Not suited for group cooking, and unstable on uneven ground which is why you can buy the Jetboil Camping Pot Stand and Stabilizer.
Overall: Good when cooking for one whilst wild camping, if water is all that is required to cook freeze dried meals. Also, ideal for a day pack when you fancy a fresh brew on the hill. I have purchased one but I'm not sure, for the Overland Track, I'm going to be happy with its cooking limitations!

Gear Test: Lifesaver Bottle

2010-06-06T11:19:00.006+01:00

This is a water filtration system I first saw at the 2010 Outdoor Show. I took a leaflet and then had a look online. So impressed by it, I purchased one straight away. Last weekend was the first time I got to use it properly, taking the water from the West Okement River. Usually, the water on Dartmoor can have a peaty flavour to it; fine in a good whisky, but it taints a cuppa or any food that's cooked with it.

Product Description

LIFESAVER bottle is the worlds first all in one ultra filtration water bottle. It will remove bacteria, viruses, parasites, fungi and all other microbiological waterborne pathogens without using chemicals like iodine or chlorine which leave a distinctive foul taste. LIFESAVER bottle produces filtered sterile drinking water quickly and easily. It incorporates LIFESAVER systems unique FAILSAFE technology (another world first) which shuts off the bottles cartridge upon expiry, preventing contaminated water from being drunk. With LIFESAVER bottle there is no need for tablets, boiling, chemicals, tubes, shaking, scrubbing, waiting or effort. LIFESAVER bottle produces clean, sterile drinking water with no foul taste - fast! Simply Scoop and Go, give it a few pumps and that's it, as soon as you open the teat clean drinking water begins to flow.

Pros: Simple to use, just scoop up the water from the source, close the base and pump the water through. The filtered water it produced was odourless and had no noticeable flavour or after taste. Being free of nasty chemicals has to be a plus!
Cons: It is on the bulky side and not recommended if weight is a real issue. At around £120 for the bottle I purchased, which gives you up to 4000 litres, it isn't cheap.
Overall: I am pleased with it. I'm prepared to carry the extra weight given that the water it supplied was pleasant to drink! I just wish I had got it before my Annapurna Sanctuary Trek!

#103 - Black-a-tor Copse

2010-05-30T19:50:00.072+01:00

The decision had been made the night before to go for a day walk, instead of camping, as the forecasters were, once again, making it hard for us. As we had both brought down some new cooking kit to try out, we thought it would be good to take it along and have a decent brew up as well as a hot meal.

We parked at a favourite of mine, Meldon Reservoir, and took the left bank to the West Okement River valley. Up onto Shelstone Tor, along the ridgeline to Steng-a-tor, before descending to Sandy Ford where we had lunch.

So to the kit; I had brought my Lifesaver Bottle to collect and filter the water, and some packs of Expedition Foods freeze dried meals to sample. Jim had purchased a Jetboil Stove, and was keen to try it out in anger. How these all faired will follow later.

A nice relaxing lunch over, we ascended to Fordsland Ledge and on to High Willhays, where the wind was picking up. We took shelter at Yes Tor, and had another brew! You can't beat a fresh cup of tea on the hill!

We headed back, via Black Tor, and descended to the copse at the foot of the hill. Black-a-tor Copse is a beautiful piece of ancient oak woodland, especially at this time of year. The oak leaves are young and almost translucent in the sun, and with the amazing range of greens and browns from the moss and lichen that covers the woodland floor, this is a magical place. We took well over an hour just pottering about exploring it! We both agreed that we had found our wildcamping spot for next time!

The joy of this walk was that we took our time and it gave us the opportunity to discover things we would normally just march by. The delicate flora in this area, clinging to the most precarious of footholds, the waterfalls, the West Okement valley is special on a day like today!

Date: 30/05/10
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Lead
Description: Meldon Reservoir – Shelston Tor - Steng-a-tor – Sandy Ford – Yes Tor – Black-a-tor Copse - Meldon Reservoir - Sunny, windy, 14.3km, 7hrs
Type of Walk: Lead or Assisting

The best laid plans...

2010-05-29T19:35:00.010+01:00

A weekend that failed to live up to our expectations! The aim was for Jim and I to head out Saturday, onto Dartmoor, bivvy for the night, then return to the car the following morning. The good old beeb got the forecast for South West Devon completely wrong, and it was obvious we had to rethink. Decision made, we set off from Belstone, in the afternoon, with the tent packed instead of the tarp. I am sorry to say, we failed to get far! Wind and rain in our face, the prospect of a thoroughly miserable experience that was nothing like the one we wanted, we stopped after twenty minutes, and decided to call it a day! Besides, the forecast had promised a better day tomorrow, we'd try again then!

But, by the time we had got home, and rechecked the weather, another band of rain had appeared and it wasn't looking better for Sunday evening. We had come to bivvy, maybe see a sunset or a sunrise, not test our survival skills!

The plan changed again, and tomorrow we would just be carrying our daysacks!

Brecon Slideshow

2010-05-24T20:27:00.003+01:00

Some pics of my walk along the Brecon Beacon Horseshoe...

#102 - Brecon Beacon Horseshoe

2010-05-22T22:29:00.001+01:00

The first full on summer weekend of the year! I drove down to Pencelli Castle campsite in the Brecon Beacons National Park, guaranteed a cloud free weekend!

No worries getting up early Saturday morning to start the walk; the morning sun soon made it unbearable to slouch in the tent for too long, and I was heading up Craig y Fan Ddu before 9am. Not ideal to start with a 250m climb straight from the car park, but I knew once it was out of the way, it was a gentle stroll to Fan y Big.

An hour in, I had my first sighting of other walkers in the distance, typically they were all congregating around the 3 peaks I was bound for.

Ticked off Fan y Big at 10.30am, Had climbed Cribyn by 11am, and after a lunch break half way up Pen y Fan, had reached it's summit by midday.

So, with the punishing climbs complete, a small matter of continuing around the horseshoe to a steep, rocky path that descended to the Neuadd Reservoir. Half way down I was passed by a naked rambler heading slowly up! My only thought was how much sun block he was wearing on a day like today!
At the reservoir, I rested under the first piece of shade I had seen for five hours! Then, on along the Taff Trail back to the car park. A tiring walk in the heat, but well worth the effort!

Date: 22/05/10
Region: Brecon Beacons National Park
Status: Solo
Description: Blaen y glyn – Craig y Fan Ddu – Fan y Big – Cribyn – Pen y Fan – Graig Fan Ddu – Neuadd Res – Taff Trail – Sunny, Hot, 18km, 6hrs.
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#101 - Kinder Scout

2010-05-02T19:07:00.058+01:00

Plan of the day was to walk the circuit of Kinder Scout. That didn't pan out but no matter, it was a fascinating walk across the plateau. I can imagine it's a bit of a nightmare in low cloud, but as long as you keep heading in a general compass direction, you'll hit the edge of the plateau eventually.

From Edale, we took Grindsbrook Clough up to Kinder Scout. It's a rocky path up, and could be tricky on a wet day. Once at the top, it began to sleet, but the visibility was still good and I saw no reason not to carry on. Picking up the Pennine Way at Kinder Low, we continued north to Kinder Fall.

By now, I was conscious of a table booked in Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Inn, in Hope, so I decided our progress was too slow to make it around the whole circuit. I opted for a route back across the middle. We just meandered back, the weather abated and it was a pleasant stroll along the streams cutting deep into the peat banks. We happened across a small cairn that turned out to be the highest point, marked on the map, at 636 metres.

Eventually, we made it back to the top of Grindsbrook Clough. Graham suggested we find another route down, so the next nearest seemed to be just after Nether Tor. A different view of the plateau and valley, well worth the detour, we descended down The Nab on a good path, and were back in time for a couple of pints in the Nags Head!

Date: 02/05/10
Region: Peak District National Park
Status: Lead
Description: Edale – Grindsbrook Clough - Kinder Low - Kinder Downfall - Nether Tor - The Nab - Edale - Cold, with sleet showers, 19km, 7hrs
Type of Walk: Leading or Assisting

#100 - Hathersage to Stanage Edge

2010-05-01T19:06:00.023+01:00

The first ever walk I did in the Peak District, a week over two years ago, as part of my Hills Skills Bronze with Will4Adventure. This time I was leading my friends Graham, Tess and Jane out of Hathersage, up onto Stanage Edge, across to Higger Tor, down into Padley Gorge before making our way down to the River Derwent. I was pretty pleased with my memory, because I didn't have the White Peaks map for the last section, but it all came back to me! I'm not sure Graham was convinced, though!

Date: 01/05/10
Region: Peak District National Park
Status: Lead
Description: Hathersage-Stanage Edge – Higger Tor - Grindleford Station – River Derwent - Hathersage - Cloud with sunny spells, 16.6km, 7hrs
Type of Walk: Leading or Assisting

#99 - Eyam and the River Derwent

2010-04-25T22:46:00.050+01:00

With Will in the half marathon, it was my task to lead the party on Sunday morning. Quite surprised to see there were 16 at the start, and despite a hiccup near the end, I finished with the same number, which is always a good thing!

Historic Eyam is best known for the plague, and there are constant reminders of this around the village. Our first stop out of the village was Riley's Graves, the resting place of a whole family who died within a week.

Next, down to the River Derwent, a beautiful river on most stretches I have had the pleasure to walk. Not that I could truly enjoy it on this occasion. The group were getting spread out and I was having to constantly check for the stragglers.

By the time we had reached the village of Stoney Middleton, and done a head count, we began to head up The Cliff before a gentle descent into Eyam. At the top, it became apparent we were two people missing, and a quick phone call found them wandering around the church back in the last village! I had to make my way back down the hill to find them. It turned out they had thought we had reached Eyam and just wandered off without saying goodbye! A valuable lesson not to assume that commonsense prevails in all of the group! I wasn't too happy about having to climb the hill again either!

Half hour later, we were back in Eyam, and this time, everyone managed to say goodbye before wandering off to their cars.

Date: 25/04/10
Region: Peak District National Park
Status: Lead
Description: Eyam - Riley Graves - Froggat Bridge – Calver – Knouchley Farm - Stoney Middleton – Eyam - Sunny, 10km, 3hrs
Type of Walk: Leading or Assisting

#98 - Monsal Head

2010-04-24T22:46:00.020+01:00

A fairly relaxed Will4Adventure walk due mainly to Will not wanting to over exert himself the day before the Sheffield Half Marathon. Beautiful day, pleasant scenery but not a route I'd rush back to do again.

Date: 24/04/10
Region: Peak District National Park
Status: Member
Description: Monsal Head- Longstone Moor - Wardlow - Litton - Tideswell Dale - Miller's Dale - Monsal Head - Sunny, clear, 18km, 6hrs
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

Bovingdon Green to Hambleden Circular

2010-04-11T19:28:00.000+01:00

A very pleasant 8.7 mile circular tramp through the Buckinghamshire countryside from Bovingdon Green, near Marlow, to Hambleden. The Chiltern woodlands are starting to come alive now! After the brief interruption before Easter, spring has definitely arrived!

#97 - Kitty Tor and the West Okement River

2010-04-04T20:00:00.005+01:00

Yesterday, I missed out on reaching Kitty Tor, so today I was going to reach it via a different route. The sunnies were on all day for this one, and it was a top day on the hill!

From Meldon Reservoir I followed the track to Vellake Corner. Here, I had a choice to go directly up the West Okement valley, following the river, or cross the weir and head south-west up a valley I had never explored before. It had to be choice number two, and the track brought me up into a huge grass amphitheatre that seemed all the more impressive by the sunshine! Bloody hell, it felt good to be alive right now!

I ascended further to Shelstone Tor, another first for me, and I was greeted with a wonderful view up the West Okement valley, with Black Tor, High Willhays and Yes Tor towering up the other side. Up onto Corn Ridge, a track becomes visible and is simple to follow to Steng-a-Tor. This is a boundary point on the Perambulation of Dartmoor, and a tricky tor to get to without getting your feet stuck in the mire surrounding it.

Kitty Tor was a mere five hundred metres away, and forty metres higher, but the ground was still tricky. Once reached, I lunched on a Thai Chicken Curry with rice and feasted further on the view across the valley to High Willhays (pictured above right)!

The descent down to Sandy Ford was slippery, and boggy, but it was an obvious wide path with a gradual gradient. One that I wish I had headed for a few years back, when on the Perambulation. Instead, I opted to descend straight from Steng-a-Tor, which is a nasty route strewn with clitter and ankle turning traps. An experience, but probably not one that would be advised for Walking Group Leaders, and certainly not ten hours into a walk when mistakes could be made!

Sandy Ford was deeper than yesterdays crossing, but once again I was impressed not to get the feet wet! From here, the option is a climb up to Fordsland Ledge and return via Black Tor, or follow the river back down to the reservoir. Once again, I chose option two, and came up trumps! You pass the beautiful Black-a-tor Copse National Nature Reserve (pictured right from a previous walk).

According to the National Park website; "This ancient oak woodland is situated about 1 mile from Meldon Reservoir up the West Okement River... 44 species of mosses and liverworts and 133 species of lichen have been recorded here..."

Back at the reservoir, I retraced my steps along the banks to the car. This was one of those days that rewards you for all the effort you put in!

Date: 04/04/10
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Solo
Description: Meldon Res. – Vellake Corner – Shelston Tor – Kitty Tor – Sandy Ford – West Okement River – Meldon Res. – Sunny, wind, hail, 12km, 4.5hrs
Type of Walk: Personal Walking

#96 - Bleak House

2010-04-03T20:00:00.003+01:00

The BBC promised a brighter afternoon. What I got was unexpected and it made the walk all the more interesting.

My objective for the day was Kitty Tor. I parked at the Fox and Hounds pub near Shortacombe, and headed out onto the north moor through Nodden Gate. I was concerned that the ford across the River Lyd might be impassable, but while it was above boot height, the gaiters performed brilliantly and I was across easily.

As yesterday, I was struggling with the ascents as I made my way up onto the higher ground, following the stream that runs between Arms Tor and Bray Tor. I eventually reached the deep cut bridleway that heads east to Dick's Well. As I reached here, the weather turned. At first, it was sleet, but it soon escalated to snow and I headed for Bleak House to take what shelter I could.

Bleak House was once the home of the manager of the Rattlebrook peat works, but is now a ruined shell. Testament to the harsh environment the moors can be. I love this building, to me it is a reminder of what a lonely place Dartmoor can be.

After a cup of hot chocoloate and a bite to eat, I left the ruins and headed the short distance up to Green Tor, where I would be able to see the terrain to Kitty Tor; well, I would on a better day! The snow was getting heavier, and now starting to settle. Aware of the dangers of walking solo in this scenario, and with no idea of how long the storm would last, I retreated. I made my way back across the Rattlebrook to Dick's Well, keeping an eye out for Great Links Tor, hidden in the mist to my right.

Bearing set, I reached Great Links, and the snow storm vanished as quickly as it had appeared. To my annoyance, Kitty Tor was visible and seemingly unaffected in the distance. Oh well, I hadn't visited Great Links before, and it's a fine tor (pictured above right).

The walk back was in dry conditions, along a track that was once the railway to the Rattlebrook peat works, before taking a left junction towards Nodden Hill. Once I reached the bridge by the River Lyd, I left the track and made my way down along the river, across the scars of the mining industry that was once here.

I eventually reached the ford again, and to my surprise, it was higher than before, but once again, I crossed it with dry feet.

Date: 03/04/10
Region: Dartmoor National Park
Status: Solo
Description: Nodden Gate – Arms Tor – Dick’s Well – Bleak House – Green Tor – Gt. Links Tor – Coombe Down – River Lyd – Nodden Gate – Snow, Rain, 11.7km, 4.5hrs
Type of Walk: Personal Walking